> Nick MBC Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> If you haven't cleaned the carburetor yet, do that first. Then, if
> you're sure you're getting spark (and you already tested compression),
> try a new spark plug first and it can't hurt to check the timing. If you
> don't have a timing light, find someone who does and borrow it
I rebuilt the entire carburetor with new parts, made sure everything was nice and clean when I was putting it back together. The float needle with the rebuild kit was shorter than the original though. I read that the float should be parallel to the carb body and it wasnt with the new float needle so I reused the original.
No stores in my area had a new spark plug in stock, so I'm waiting on a new one to arrive. Will try again once it arrives.
> Joe K Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I had the same kind of issues when I first got my Concord (a different
> frame but still a V1 engine.) I had spark and fuel but it wouldn't
> start. Mine was a rust bucket when I got it so I ended up taking the
> exhaust off to see if it was clogged and tried to blow air through it
> with my compressor. Nothing was coming out the back end and then BOOM a
> shotgun blast of rust flakes hit my hand. Once it was cleaned out I put
> it back on and it started right up.
>
> Also, a couple months ago it died because of a timing issue. There is a
> woodruff key on the crankshaft that lines up the flywheel to the correct
> stock timing. Mine sheared the key in half and the flywheel moved.
I'll take a look at the exhaust and see if its clogged. The Safari doesnt have much rust thankfully but I havent thought to look at it so I'll give it a go.
And thanks for the tip about the woodruff key. First time I've hear of such a thing so I did a quick google search. Seems that it should be accessible after taking off just the timing/flywheel cover and easy to verify if its in tact. I think it's fine because I manually spun the flywheel by hand at one point to test the piston before doing a compression check but I'll take a closer look at it to verify.
> Ted Grant Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Good points everyone. Your compression is a lot better than mine. I
> worked as a small engine mechanic and we kept a spray bottle of gas on
> hand to test motors. This was out in the sticks where rules and safety
> are only suggestions. First was a compression check then spark. We
> simply removed the carb or spark plug and sprayed in a little gas. Might
> take a couple of pulls to get the air/fuel ratio close to 14.7/1 then
> the motor would run for 2 to 3 seconds. Easy way to diagnose fuel
> delivery issues. On my Sachs 504 motor I can remove the flywheel cover
> and spin the motor with my drill and a 3/8 adapter. Hope this helps...
Thats a good suggestion. The Safari has gas in it but I'm not sure how old it is. It doesnt smell foul so I dont think its very old and it (and the tank) look clean so I'm assuming its relatively new-ish. I'll get some fresh gas though and spray some through the spark plug hole to make sure gas quality isnt an issue.