Hahaha funny joke. But anyways. Hi. Hello. Im new 😬. I’m picking up a Trac Olympic down in Pittsburgh tomorrow and I’m pumped. Kinda wanna make it a touch more off-roady since it has the hydraulic forks and bigger brakes. I know it won’t be a motocross anything, but it would be kinda cool to have something I could rip down a trail or back road on. So yeah. That’s about it. Not to interesting. I’ll throw some photos up if I don’t get abducted going to pick it up.
Toodles!
Uh oh good luck.
Holy shit m, I’m alive! And holy shit, it runs! It’s an absolute turd, but it runs!
Did the traditional pre-flight for a new heap. Checked gear oil. Pulled the carb. It was nasty so I threw it in the ultrasonic cleaner (get one. Change. Your. Life.) pulled the plug. Two stroke oil in the spark plug hole and down the intake. Kicked over a few times. Real smooth. Checked. Had spark, but the coil was junky and wouldn’t hold the spark plug wire. I grabbed an extra from a Honda Mini and plugged it in and grounded it. Spark! So input the plug in, put the spark plug cap on, shot up on some carb cleaner, and lo and behold the beast fired and ran! Hopefully gonna get the wiring taken care of.
Yeah that wasn’t me. Well. That one little yellow wire was me, but the rest was someone else. Probably gonna document what I do when and how just cause these bikes don’t have much support, aftermarket or otherwise. Should have it rideable come spring, but that never usually works out.
That’s an M56 / clone right? They were copied from Batavus?
Interested in the ultrasonic...HF has a “bike parts cleaner” size one that I’ve wondered about (like wondered if it was junk). How long do you leave a carb in there for?
> E BinOH Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> That’s an M56 / clone right? They were copied from Batavus?
Not these ones, that was the generation before. This Olympic would have come with a Daelim DP50 1-speed pedal start.
These are interesting engines. The cylinder and head appear to be yamaha inspired. They have a pretty decent 3 transfer cast iron cylinder. They have a pretty large exhaust header, and come with a nice quality mikuni carb (although it's tiny). The reed valve uses the 4 bolt pattern shared with polini/tomos/peugeot 103. The clutch and clutch bell are pretty much the same design as the tomos A3, although just a tiny bit larger in diameter. The downside is that the transmissions aren't very robust.
My girl rides a Liberty LS which has an electronic start, put an MLM pipe on it and get a good 45 mphs, not much out there as far as performance pipes but I did find an extra head and cylinder which I ported slightly. I have a Piercard cdi I need to throw on there but I don’t know if I need to retard or advance the stator. All the instructions are in Argentinian. I also put .35 reeds in in and a 40 tooth sprocket I had made for it. She like it but wants a top tank. I’m hoping to find a trac too tank and do an engine swap to keep the electric start which she likes.
> . Chudas. Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> My girl rides a Liberty LS which has an electronic start, put an MLM
> pipe on it and get a good 45 mphs, not much out there as far as
> performance pipes but I did find an extra head and cylinder which I
> ported slightly. I have a Piercard cdi I need to throw on there but I
> don’t know if I need to retard or advance the stator. All the
> instructions are in Argentinian. I also put .35 reeds in in and a 40
> tooth sprocket I had made for it. She like it but wants a top tank. I’m
> hoping to find a trac too tank and do an engine swap to keep the
> electric start which she likes.
Do you have or can you find a .doc, .docx, .odf, .pdf, .ppt, .pptx, .ps, .rtf, .txt, .xls, or .xlsx of those instructions ?
If so , simply go to Google Translate and Upload your instructions .
You'll end up with something you can read . ;)
45 is pretty damn good for a janky ol moped!
Holy shit I’m still alive. So anyways I did what I do best and tore apart something that really didn’t need taken apart.
First thing: according to this head gasket the bike has the same head stud pattern as Yamaha qt50, which the jug itself looks strikingly similar to! As I have it apart I’m going to take lots of measurements due the distinct lack of information currently available. Here’s some to begin with.
BOTH crank bearings are 6203 bearings.
BOTH clutch cover bearings are 6000 bearings.
...
The case side transmission shaft bearing is a 6201
The output shaft bearing (not pictured, no code) is a 6202 bearing.
The bearing inside the transmission gear is an HF2520 One way bearing.
Internal end output shaft bearing is an HK1812 bearing.
I know it’s not much to start off with, but it’s something. The only two I don’t have sizes for are the connecting rod small end bearing and the clutch bell one way bearing. My cheap-o calipers tell me random distances completely unrelated to the measurements I’m actually taking all of a sudden. Must be the humidity. Oh well. I’ll get seals up tomorrow.
Great stuff, add it to the wiki!
You'll have to decide what the maximum size of items you'll put in that ultrasonic cleaner before going to HF. Guys are dumping the small cleaners regularly--too limited. I got mine from flea-bay, large enough for automotive components so I use it all the time. Read reviews on Amazon too, just in case, and when you see the same types in both places. What to put on the water for cleaning is a debate. Still having issues with Simple Green aviation cleaner, but it does clean really well. Keep getting white crap crystalizing on carbs after cleaning; I digress, it is a great investment, just do your homework!
I have a HF Ultrasonic cleaner, Works excellent. I only use a few drops of Dawn dish soap and distilled water for cleaning carbs and fuel related parts. Anything else to toxic will cause pitting on aluminum. Nice work on the Trac by the way.
I use simple green aircraft cleaner. Doesn’t eat aluminum and cuts grease and stuff. As for size I would recommend the largest you can afford. Go through Amazon or Ebay, as both sites have them cheaper than harbor freight (GASP). Go with the biggest size you can afford. Don’t be afraid to get one of the cheaper smaller ones, as having one with clean solution is great for carbs. Mine and the style I’d recommend are the stainless ones that look like heated food stations. I’ve had mine die on me once. The wires tend to be aluminum from the factory and some of the connections to the board are... flimsy. Soldered some good copper wire in where need be and haven’t had a problem since, knock on wood! All the parts are generic Chinese components so if anythjng ever breaks/melts you can easily repair the machine as well if you’re willing to take it apart!
SO! The trac jug seems to be very closely based on the Yamaha qt50/pw50/ five or six other bikes’ jug. The biggest problem with using the Yamaha parts is the wrist pin. See, the needle bearing for the trac’s wrist pin is 12x16x13 and the Yamaha one is 10x14x13. So three options. Use the stock piston with new rings in the Yamaha jug, ream the Yamaha wrist pin hole to 12mm and use the original wrist pin, or get one of THESE I’m betting on that last one being the best option. The stock piston and bore are in real nice shape still so I’m gonna keep using them for a bit, but in the name of… science? Posterity? Wheelies? Whatever. Hoping I can get a 70cc kit for a Yamaha to fit is the end goal eventually. Also I lied about the seals. Sorry. I have the specs I’m just lazy.
fuck i jus sold my tack and have a pw/qt kit sitting on a shelf.
It was on my hybrid 2wd fantic, i sold it.
Dude you sold the 2wd hybrid ebike?
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