> Jacob Fulton Wrote:
> I just replaced the pucks and flipped the second gear clutch on mine,
> and put a fresh top end/pipe one. Geared tall to keep rpms below 8500
> rpm. For me this is a treats piston port kit/head, mlm peoples sidebleed
> pipe, 19/37 gearing. This is the “fast but reliable” setup I was
> recommended to follow, without having to worry or mess with shimming
> assuming you put them back in the right spot. I did not the first time
> and it wouldn’t roll backwards. I also didn’t put the roller bearings
> against spring tension so the transmission never engaged lol.
> From my understanding, once you mess with aftermarket cranks, you need
> to nail down the low tolerance shimming part of the equation. Supposed
> to be easier with the official tool but it’s rare, I’ve been hoping
> someone holding onto it sends one to MLM for reproductions.
> With that setup so far not really tuned, I get 74cc e50 kit like
> acceleration off the line in 1st. Hitting low 40s. My other ZA is geared
> even taller at 20/35 so I guess it might last longer but this season
> will be my first with ZAs, I’ll probably be posting here on results.
> Detroit Moped works used to be the go to but they only do small/quick
> local repairs now. The mods mentioned above are easy to do though, just
> need to make sure you correctly take off the right hand threaded nut,
> and grab the second gear locking tool from treats. The tool the holds
> the sprocket isn’t worth it, just use a 8mm socket, it’s useless once
> you change that front sprocket.
You kinda said that confusing, just to be clear The first nut you takeoff inside is a reverse thread nut, left to tighten, right to loosen
Using a 8 mm socket against the sprocket is a bad idea it puts stress on several bearings especially if it’s on tight, the locking tool is a must