Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

I ran a few gallons of water through the tank to get any big flakes out. Then I poured in acetone for 48 hours, washed that out, and 48 hours with Metal Rescue. Damn, that stuff works! Inside of the tank is now bright and clean, examined all the way inside with an endoscope.

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

I ordered the 1mm and 1.6mm aluminum spacers from Treats. What arrived was one that was 1.95mm and one that was 2.10mm. I used the 1.95mm with the two base gaskets that came with the kit. Now there's very nice clearance, and the piston clears the exhaust port.

-MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Heck yeah

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

Looks like you lucked out and have cylinder studs that look straight and are in good shape. So often they're bent this way and that or have damaged threads...makes getting a head gasket on and off very annoying

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Looks like you lucked out and have cylinder studs that look straight and

> are in good shape. So often they're bent this way and that or have

> damaged threads...makes getting a head gasket on and off very annoying

Originally, they were rusty and very gross. The threads had some kind of hardened goop on them. But indeed, they are straight. I had to run a wire wheel on them, and now they are functional again.

-MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Johnny Braaapp /

Looking good, I love following along these rebuild threads. Keep the photos coming.

Nice job!

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Probably Fred /

Your bike is actually a Newport II, not a Newport, ignition coil location and sprockets are different (stock 2 hp e50 has 16x45 gearing and za50 has 18x40 gearing, e50 has the ignition coil on the engine)

18x40 Za50 sprockets will probably be too high gearing for your e50 to pull it, maybe 17x40 if you have a good tuned clutch but 16x40 will be fine,

What happened to the original za50 engine? See if the person who you bought the bike off of still has it, It’s a better engine for takeoff and hills

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Great photos and documentation, thanks for posting.

I commented on FB about your squish clearance, with the piston down the hole a little like it is, that looks perfect. I would measure it but the way it looks you probably won't want a head gasket.

As I said in FB, conservative timing for break in, the piston in these kits is really touchy. Once they are broke in they can take a lot of abuse.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

The build continues! Today was my first attempt at porting engine cases. I have a Dremel and the associated bits, but I also have a machinist with 25 years experience and a Bridgeport at work, so he gave me a crash course and I got to use that machine as well. I marked out some margins based on a cutout I made of the Airsal 72cc cylinder, and then matched the Treats spacer and the cases. The ports are now smooth but not polished. I can do that later at home. I also dunked the cases in some aluminum acid wash we have at work. They look much better. Vapor honing is next!

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Overpriced Parts Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Your bike is actually a Newport II, not a Newport, ignition coil

> location and sprockets are different (stock 2 hp e50 has 16x45 gearing

> and za50 has 18x40 gearing, e50 has the ignition coil on the engine)

>

> 18x40 Za50 sprockets will probably be too high gearing for your e50 to

> pull it, maybe 17x40 if you have a good tuned clutch but 16x40 will be

> fine,

>

> What happened to the original za50 engine? See if the person who you

> bought the bike off of still has it, It’s a better engine for takeoff

> and hills

Interesting. Yes this one had 18/40 and an e50. There’s also a “1.5 HP” sticker on it which looks original. My Tomos is a two speed so I really do want a single speed on this Puch. I’ll deal with the proper gearing on the rebuild when we get there.

MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Probably Fred /

> Moshe Levy Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Overpriced Parts Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > Your bike is actually a Newport II, not a Newport, ignition coil

>

> > location and sprockets are different (stock 2 hp e50 has 16x45 gearing

>

> > and za50 has 18x40 gearing, e50 has the ignition coil on the engine)

>

> >

>

> > 18x40 Za50 sprockets will probably be too high gearing for your e50 to

>

> > pull it, maybe 17x40 if you have a good tuned clutch but 16x40 will be

>

> > fine,

>

> >

>

> > What happened to the original za50 engine? See if the person who you

>

> > bought the bike off of still has it, It’s a better engine for takeoff

>

> > and hills

>

> Interesting. Yes this one had 18/40 and an e50. There’s also a “1.5 HP”

> sticker on it which looks original. My Tomos is a two speed so I really

> do want a single speed on this Puch. I’ll deal with the proper gearing

> on the rebuild when we get there.

>

> MKL

Your engine is not original it has been changed to a e50 I guarantee it, theres no way a Stock E50 could’ve pulled 18x40 gearing let alone a 1.5 hp e50 maxi that comes with 15x45 gearing that’s even lower than 2HP 16×45 Gears

A stock 1.5 Hp za50 Newport II still comes with 18x40 gears,

I had or worked on several red Newport II’s over the years and I got one right now, They come with the good second generation za50 engine that engine Vin number matches the frame, never come from the factory With a e50,

For the coil to be on the frame it’s a specially made Za50 frame that has the coil mounts Welding in at the factory because there is no coil mounting slot on a za50 like a e50 engine has.

Look at the one I have now that I’m going to be restoring sometime it’s a za50 that the Vin matches the frame.

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Some Newport II’s especially the black ones have normal 17 digit Vin numbers like a car and engine number doesn’t match but most red ones don’t but still come with za50 engines

A 1980 second generation puch Za50 2 speed is far superior to a 2speed tomos engine and after you flip the second gear clutch it shifts like a Chevy powerglide transmission with full and partial throttle kick down making it a blast to ride by keeping you in the power at all times

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Your engine is not original it has been changed to a e50 I guarantee it,

> theres no way a Stock E50 could’ve pulled 18x40 gearing let alone a 1.5

> hp e50 maxi that comes with 15x45 gearing that’s even lower than 2HP

> 16×45 Gears

>

> A stock 1.5 Hp za50 Newport II still comes with 18x40 gears,

>

> I had or worked on several red Newport II’s ove

>

> For the coil to be on the frame it’s a specially made Za50 frame that

> has the coil mounts Welding in at the factory because there is no coil

> mounting slot on a za50 like a e50 engine has.

>

> Look at the one I have now that I’m going to be restoring sometime it’s

> a za50 that the Vin matches the frame.

>

> Some Newport II’s especially the black ones have normal 17 digit Vin

> numbers like a car and engine number doesn’t match but most red ones

> don’t but still come with za50 engines

>

> A 1980 second generation puch Za50 2 speed is far superior to a 2speed

> tomos engine and after you flip the second gear clutch it shifts like a

> Chevy powerglide transmission with full and partial throttle kick down

> making it a blast to ride by keeping you in the power at all times

Oh, I believe it. This Puch was a $200 non-runner. I got it because I knew I wanted to go frame-up this time, to really learn what makes these tick. The engine surely was underwater for some time, because the inner cases were full of rusty gunk. It did not come with a carb, but the top of a Bing carb was dangling from the throttle cable. I'm sure the kid I bought it from has no clue where the original ZA is. Maybe I'll get a ZA in the future! But for now, this is what I've got....

-MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Johnny Braaapp /

How bad did you blow through the sides porting with that vertical mill?

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Johnny Braaapp Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> How bad did you blow through the sides porting with that vertical mill?

Not at all. The machinist taught me how to shave off just a tad - not that close to my margin. And then for the balance I just used my dremel tool and a file. You'd have to have real skill to do the whole thing with a Bridgeport, and after I explained the process of what I needed (and that I wanted to do the whole thing myself,) we played it safe with the Bridgeport.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Johnny Braaapp /

> Moshe Levy Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Johnny Braaapp Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > How bad did you blow through the sides porting with that vertical

> mill?

>

> Not at all. The machinist taught me how to shave off just a tad - not

> that close to my margin. And then for the balance I just used my dremel

> tool and a file. You'd have to have real skill to do the whole thing

> with a Bridgeport, and after I explained the process of what I needed

> (and that I wanted to do the whole thing myself,) we played it safe with

> the Bridgeport.

Nice job! I blew through my cases when porting with a dremel. Luckily enough I can just tig weld them back up

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Ouch! I have no welding knowledge and was deathly afraid of screwing this up, so I was super careful....

-MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Dirty30 Dillon /

The good news is, E50 cases are easy enough to get.

If you're blowing through E50 cases, you're probably matching too deep.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Yeah you don't need to match very deep at all, just kills your primary compression. If I am working with a kit that has deep skirts I'd rather raise the skirt to open up the flow path than hack a bunch of metal out of the cylinder.

Also, I thought the 46mm airsal fits the stock cases?

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> Also, I thought the 46mm airsal fits the stock cases?

It does. Barely, and the cylinder skirts are very thin, but it does fit. The ports, however, do not match at all. That's what this effort was for.

-MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Vapor honing the cases came out pretty good! The vendor just sent this pic to me. I pick them up Wednesday.

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Those cases look amazing!

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Holy clean cases batman. How much did the vapor honing cost?

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Are you going to put some sort of high temperature clear to keep them looking like that?

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

From what I’ve heard about vapor honing, it’s like micro shot peening. So, the look should stay forever. Just have to clean it off when it gets dirty.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

$60 total - a bargain, considering how much time you'd have to spend scrubbing (not to mention costs for supplies) doing that the hard way. I scrubbed the cases a bit with simple green before going in for vapor honing, just to get the main crud off. Gave it to the vendor as shown attached. I don't plan on any clear coat. The surface is smooth and a periodic wipedown is all it will need to stay looking good. My vehicles, in general, are immaculate. I will not allow 40 years worth of crud to accumulate, which was the fate of these cases prior to this teardown!

-MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Papa _ Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> From what I’ve heard about vapor honing, it’s like micro shot peening.

> So, the look should stay forever. Just have to clean it off when it gets

> dirty.

Yup, I had cases vapor blasted a few years ago and they stay a lot cleaner than bead blasting. You can use a wax on them too I think?

I had a good hook up in NC when I did them for about $70 in 2013, but I called around here a few years ago and people were quoting like $200. My preferred method is glass bead blast and a product called alumi-blast, not a paint, more like a dye? It soaks into the porous bead blasted surface and makes it easy to clean and smooth like an oem finish. Not show quality but no maintenance since my bikes rarely get washed.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

OK last night I got the e50 mostly back together. Clutch goes on tonight and the ignition sometime next week when I replace the points and condenser.

MKL

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