1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Hi Everyone

In late October, I picked up a 1980 Puch Newport, and as my winter project, I'm going to strip it completely down and rebuild it with a mild engine upgrade. I'm sure I will need to rely on some of your expert advice, especially in areas which I am unfamiliar with (such as mechanical ignition and wiring.) Here's how she looked on December 27, 2020, when I started the teardown.

I'm envisioning a 70s-era paintjob (candy apple red or electric blue) and a complete engine rebuild. I've got new seals and bearings on the way, along with an Airsal 72cc top end and DMP aluminum stuffed crank. I'll keep on posting my progress and questions as this proceeds.....

Thanks!

-MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

On January 3, 2021, I took apart the wheels and brakes. Plenty of meat left on the brake pads, but the bearings in the front wheel were pretty crusted up with old grease. I cleaned it all out and repacked them. Also polished up the brake plate exteriors.

-MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Yesterday, I tore the engine down completely. Thank God for Youtube! Evidence of water sitting in the cases. The bearings on the crank are rusty and shot. The cases are pretty gross inside and out, even after plenty of scrubbing. I'm looking into Vapor Honing after seeing this video

Would be nice to have everything looking like new!

-MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Today I took the old tires and tubes off of the stock spoke wheels, and polished them up. Removed most of the rust from them, and then installed some new tubes and tires. I'm in need of a speedo drive. This is on the right side - I bought this one from Treats https://www.treatland.tv/VDO-style-speedometer-drive-gear-p/puch-vdo-speedo-drive.htm and it doesn't fit. The tabs are too wide, and the hole for the axle is about 2mm too big. It also feels very cheap and flimsy. Does anyone have a line on a good quality OEM unit?

-MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Moshe Levy Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Today I took the old tires and tubes off of the stock spoke wheels, and

> polished them up. Removed most of the rust from them, and then installed

> some new tubes and tires. I'm in need of a speedo drive. This is on the

> right side - I bought this one from Treats

> https://www.treatland.tv/VDO-style-speedometer-drive-gear-p/puch-vdo-speedo-drive.htm

> and it doesn't fit. The tabs are too wide, and the hole for the axle is

> about 2mm too big. It also feels very cheap and flimsy. Does anyone have

> a line on a good quality OEM unit?

>

> -MKL

For shit like that just post a WTB ad on the buy/sell forum and you can probably get one for like $5+shipping

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

That's going to be a very nice bike, I'm always amazed to see the engines torn down on a moped, just marvel that that tiny collection of parts can shove you around at 30ish. From the pics anyway, I would go after the paint with rubbing compound and wax, I bet it shines like new money and much cheaper that having it pro painted. Plus it's a stock color, I have not seen a red maxi ever. Clean and seal the tank as well while it is appart, Caswell. For parts, Sundaymorningmotors.com used to have a ton of used Puch parts, or as stated above buy/sell here is an awesome resource. Keep the pics coming, love watching bikes take shape.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

>

> For shit like that just post a WTB ad on the buy/sell forum and you can

> probably get one for like $5+shipping

Great idea - but my understanding is that there are many different types of drives. This Puch didn’t come with one, so I’m not really sure what I’m looking for. Besides it being a 1980 Newport, are there any other identifiers I should include in a WTB ad?

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

> Stephen Keller Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> That's going to be a very nice bike, I'm always amazed to see the

> engines torn down on a moped, just marvel that that tiny collection of

> parts can shove you around at 30ish. From the pics anyway, I would go

> after the paint with rubbing compound and wax, I bet it shines like new

> money and much cheaper that having it pro painted. Plus it's a stock

> color, I have not seen a red maxi ever. Clean and seal the tank as well

> while it is appart, Caswell. For parts, Sundaymorningmotors.com used to

> have a ton of used Puch parts, or as stated above buy/sell here is an

> awesome resource. Keep the pics coming, love watching bikes take shape.

All that is good advice except for sealing the tank. Sealing a tank that does not leak is pointless. And being an in-frame tank, if it were rusty enough to leak, then it would be structurally compromised and worthless anyway.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Stephen Keller Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > That's going to be a very nice bike, I'm always amazed to see the

>

> > engines torn down on a moped, just marvel that that tiny collection of

>

> > parts can shove you around at 30ish. From the pics anyway, I would go

>

> > after the paint with rubbing compound and wax, I bet it shines like

> new

>

> > money and much cheaper that having it pro painted. Plus it's a stock

>

> > color, I have not seen a red maxi ever. Clean and seal the tank as

> well

>

> > while it is appart, Caswell. For parts, Sundaymorningmotors.com used

> to

>

> > have a ton of used Puch parts, or as stated above buy/sell here is an

>

> > awesome resource. Keep the pics coming, love watching bikes take

> shape.

>

> All that is good advice except for sealing the tank. Sealing a tank that

> does not leak is pointless. And being an in-frame tank, if it were rusty

> enough to leak, then it would be structurally compromised and worthless

> anyway.

Yes, luckily, the sheet metal is in great shape. No rust outside and only very slight surface rust in the tank. I now have the info to clear that out but unfortunately my garden hose is frozen so I can’t start the big flush until that thaws out.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

roots to wings /

So detective you are in the never seal club? I got one of the Speedo’s from treats. Not sure I understand your nomenclature but I had to file down the needle that goes in the speedo and hun to get mine to work. What did you find worked best on the rust on your rims? (edited)

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> roots to wings Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> So detective you are in the never seal club? I got one of the Speedo’s

> from treats. Not sure I understand your nomenclature but I had to file

> down the needle that goes in the speedo and hun to get mine to work.

> What did you find worked best on the rust on your rims?

In my case the Treats unit doesn’t fit in any way. The tabs are too wide and the axle hole too big. For the rust I loosened it with a wire wheel and then hit it with simple green. Not perfect, but certainly good enough. You can’t see it anyway.

MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> > Stephen Keller Wrote:

>

> > -------------------------------------------------------

>

> > That's going to be a very nice bike, I'm always amazed to see the

>

> > engines torn down on a moped, just marvel that that tiny collection of

>

> > parts can shove you around at 30ish. From the pics anyway, I would go

>

> > after the paint with rubbing compound and wax, I bet it shines like

> new

>

> > money and much cheaper that having it pro painted. Plus it's a stock

>

> > color, I have not seen a red maxi ever. Clean and seal the tank as

> well

>

> > while it is appart, Caswell. For parts, Sundaymorningmotors.com used

> to

>

> > have a ton of used Puch parts, or as stated above buy/sell here is an

>

> > awesome resource. Keep the pics coming, love watching bikes take

> shape.

>

> All that is good advice except for sealing the tank. Sealing a tank that

> does not leak is pointless. And being an in-frame tank, if it were rusty

> enough to leak, then it would be structurally compromised and worthless

> anyway.

I don't share your view on this, and here is why, if it was just to be a runner and ride around I would not seal it either, but he is tearing this down to nuts and bolts, so why not add an extra layer of protection to the tank? Make her solid for another 30 odd yrs? Just me being anal I guess. I do understand if it is rusted enough to leak it is junk, I have motobecane syndrome...so yeah, but on a full on resto, I would add anything I could to preserve it. Ounce of prevention stuff... :)

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

roots to wings /
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I agree on saving the tank. I am hoping I can save Floki because the paint is so good on the rest of the bike and it rides and runs like a dream.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Only use caswell tank sealer if you do. It's the ONLY good one.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Brandon Weiss (Detective brandon to you) /

The reason I am against sealing tanks unless absolutely necessary is that even as good as Caswell is, there is always a risk of failure, another variable when there's no need. Cleaning out a failed tank lining is virtually impossible, especially on an in frame tank.

If the tank is in good shape, there's no reason to do it imho.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

That speedo drive could be made to work .

Take the tabs down to size and use a spacer for the axle hole .

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> P D Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> That speedo drive could be made to work .

>

> Take the tabs down to size and use a spacer for the axle hole .

The tabs themselves are too wide. So this means I'd have to cut them off and glue them somehow in a more narrow pattern? That seems rigged. I'd rather just buy something that was made to fit. I will bring the wheel to the local moped shop so it can be test fitted prior to purchase.

-MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Just look for a speedo drive that is for an 11mm axel. The double tabbed ones, but even a single tab one should work. Or forget those janky drives and get a nice phone mount for your GPS digital speedo App. Your stock speedo probably doesnt show over 40mph anyway.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Jay Rivett Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Just look for a speedo drive that is for an 11mm axel. The double

> tabbed ones, but even a single tab one should work. Or forget those

> janky drives and get a nice phone mount for your GPS digital speedo App.

> Your stock speedo probably doesnt show over 40mph anyway.

Or one of those Trail Tech Vapor computers! But I thought those ran on 12v....

MKL

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Minor progress today in cleaning up various parts...

MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Hi All-

OK the 72cc Airsal kit is arriving today. I understand that some additional spacing is necessary at the cylinder base to set this top end up correctly. I'm assuming here based on what I have gleaned so far that I need a 1mm spacer http://www.treatland.tv/MLM-puch-metal-base-plate-spacer-p/mlm-puch-metal-base-plate.htm plus 2x 0.5mm paper gaskets on either side of the spacer. Can anyone who has installed the 72cc Airsal kit ( https://www.treatland.tv/puch-airsal-72cc-46mm-cylinder-kit-with-head-p/puch-airsal-72cc-01031446.htm ) confirm this please?

-MKL (edited)

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

I can confirm that I read the same stuff prior to installing mine and made a spacer.

Super easy and absolutley no issues.

I also had the head gasket that came with the kit blow out, like exploded, before I even started break-in. Polished the head sealing surfaces and run with no gasket.

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Wild!

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

I would make another vote for no sealer... Nobody thought they would put corn liquor in gas either, but sure enough, in the early 2000s I was buying bikes left and right with rotten kreem tank sealer coming out of them like tan snot.

Plus it's like damn near impossible to roll it around inside a maxi tank good anyways.

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

OK next up - no speedo drive on this moped. Above I mentioned that I ordered the Treats VDO unit and it doesn't fit. Here are some measurements from my front wheel - does this help source a unit? I will post a WTB ad too.

-MKL

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Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Here ya go: https://www.sundaymorningmotors.com/product-p/c002011.htm

Love this site for stock parts

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Yeah I probably got one somewhere too, I'll look for it tonight

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

> Graham Motzing Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> Yeah I probably got one somewhere too, I'll look for it tonight

Thanks

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

Don't forget to gap your rings! Might also want to clean up the ports and transfers with a needle file. Probably not needed but I always do

Re: 1980 Puch Newport Full Rebuild Thread

OK so tonight I built up my new DMP aluminum stuffed crank with new bearings and seals, and installed it alone in the cases with the Airsal 72cc top end to check clearances. The vendor sent me two base gaskets, so I installed them both. You can see that the crown of the piston still sticks out past the cylinder, and the piston does not clear the whole exhaust port.

So, I think that tomorrow I have to order the 1mm spacer from Treats ( https://www.treatland.tv/MLM-puch-metal-base-plate-spacer-for-p/mlm-puch-metal-plate-oversize.htm?1=1&CartID=0 ) and use a paper gasket on each side of it. That should put the clearances in the safe zone. With that out of the way, I can figure out how to port the cases to match the cylinder!

-MKL (edited)

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