MOPED ARMY

You could delete the oil injection but the oil pump directly oils the crank bearings so you run the risk of your crank bearings exploding

wow that's complicated

Do you mind if i write you directly with a few more questions as they come up. I just started on the rebuild, and i know i will have more questions that come up.

Why delete it the system works well.

Do not disassemble unless you have to. There is one bolt on the Pump that is LEFT hand thread. In the picture you attached it is very close to the "OIL PUMP" written in the drawing.

I have a Suzuki with this pump system. It works perfectly. Yes the pumps adds more oil than you need but it works and does the job. It is also variable feed depending on the throttle so again why delete it.

One thing I have learned is to install a Shut-Off valve between the Oil Tank and Pump. The new oils can bleed through and fill the crankcase. The only time this happens is if the Pump is in that one exact spot to allow it. Kind of like hitting the Lotto. The Valve stops this.

Also, do you know how to drain all the oil out of the thing. I haven't gotten a chance to really take a look yet.

Classic Suzuki bullshit. The oil-slinger design caused the death of many of their bikes by shade-tree folks who just deleted the pump.

It's also the reason why I sold the TS100 and TS250 I owned briefly.

The service manual explains it pretty well.

Mine sat for over 30 years, the gas tank emptied into the crankcase. I had to dissolve the varnish out of it, free the piston and crank, do ignition, tires, carb, etc. Fun times, worth staying home for.

I would of liked to have the oil inject one. If I blasted down a hill, the bearing would scream at me. I brought two of them from a dealer that had old stock, he had two left. If the crank bearings arent too bad, you can access the crank seals without splitting the case. The Suzuki dealer can get you the seals and most other parts, ebay has gasket kits and pistons, rings, wrist pins.

CDI? These use points. Did you swap out the entire magneto for CDI?

I only had to replace the condenser for an external one that I mounted inside of the frame, and clean the points. Also, I cleaned each electrical contact and added a tad of grease and made sure that they snapped together completely.

I would suggest looking in the parts manual in tne link I posted for the part number of the outer right crank bearing and calling Hollick Suzuki in NY, 585-352-1930 and buying a bearing in case you need it. They had two left as nos and this is a nonstandard bearing specially made for these bikes. The other ones are standard and available at Suzuki dealers.

Here is a picture of the old one and the new one. Note the one on the top has a condenser, but the new one does not. Is that correct?

Just means that the previous owner wired in an external condenser when the internal one fried. It's an easy way to get the bike running again when the condenser does, as you don't need to pull the flywheel.

No big deal. Any One wire condenser with a mounting/grounding strap can be used....I'm partial to anything from a 70's gm from autozone....but I digress, if you replace the internal condenser you're golden, as I imagine it was left in there..If not, an external condenser can be spliced in to the wire running to the ht coil from the stator. Just like the previous owner had done on your original coil.

Top tip, if you don't replace the internal condenser, you should remove it as they can short eventually and totally kill the spark. But there is no problem with it being external.

Forgive my blabbering I'm 5 beers in.

Spark plug : NGK B7 .

Service manual :

https://www.oldjapanesebikes.com/mraxl_GT_Resource/manuals/k10p_service/index.php

Yeah that diagram is ok, as long as you understand that is also comes from the points. It's not just to the condenser. The condenser can go anywhere, where the ignition coil wire comes out of the stator......where it plugs in to the ht coil(black box with the spark plug wire. Doesn't matter

The coil under the flywheel is energised by the moving magnets. That charge is just dropped to ground when the points are closed, the switch is on so to speak and connected the power just runs in a loop.

But when the points open(switch off) the power has no where to go except the next easyest path,

Thru the ignition wire to the ht coil causing a spark in the plug.

The condenser works like you would think a battery would. But a very fast battery. Fully charged in milliseconds. It just holds a charge.

No condenser is like letting a faucet go straight down a drain, not much force...butif you fill a pot first and dump it all at once you get alot more water at once.