MOPED ARMY

I love these radio shack rectifiers, perfect for moped stuff and basically indestructible

One caveat: if you are seeing let's say 14v AC when running at speed, that means you are going to possibly see up to 14v x 1.414 = 19.6v DC

So just remember that when designing the rest of the circuit

Oh man, El Pollo would be all over this!

I have been thinking of changing over to Tomos Revival regulator to also have a properly sounding horn. Whole thing DC. Add a capacitor to eliminate idle flicker.

Love this. Finally a straightforward post with out all the opinions and nonsense.

Dan would you be able to post some purchase links to the specific items you purchased? Yes, I know common electrical things but it helps in streamlining the process without any question

Here is the rectifier. I can't find the lamps right now. The one I used was from a previous order.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-50A-1000V-Metal-Case-Single-Phases-Diode-Bridge-Rectifier-KBPC5010-BPHH/303636999659

Have you done the conversion ?

We started doing them with sealed beams and those dumb festoon lamps .

We would break out the old lamp, drill the metal a bit to fit the new lamp, and put a slimmer regular or halogen lamp in to save $20-$50 on a sealed beam and make the lamp replaceable .

Those Honda motorcycle headlights are expensive.

Some times you have to epoxy the new lamp and socket in . .

Depends on the lamp you buy or get from the junk yard. .

Once we got a few under our belts , the led prices started coming down , making it worth while.

I am trying to make this as simple as I can so the average guy can do this for about $10 and all they need are a few easy to obtain parts .

At some point all the ac goes back to one chassis common point .

There is never a true grounded system on a wheeled vehicle , but if i understand your question , it is not floated.

Why would this matter?

Now i understand .

In this case DC is floated although I'm still not sure why it matters.

Well we're back on the argument of floating and not floating sorry if I introduced it I'm thinking that this silicon rectifier right at the very end of the line for a single light maybe that behaves differently than what happened to me when I tried to get good clear DC without having to wire AC basically using the frame ground as the back half of the AC with the silicon rectifier I couldn't really get much in the way of DC and when I took the back side of the light coil floated off the grounding and use that on a silica rectifier I found that my measured DC was just better way better I mean a whole lot better I mean like night and day basically so I don't know what I was doing that makes me such a you know always asking if you floated it and I have a feeling that this last step just before the light bulb maybe that's why it works so nicely

I bought a Shindengen FH020AA, stable voltage 12.5V on idle and enough to charge the battery when driving :)

Costs a bit more but it's definitely worth it.

Thanks for that^ . Much better . :)

Hi there. I'm hoping someone can help me understand better. I'm looking to keep the stock headlight on my 1979 Motobecane 50V (12 volt), but add a 12v DC aftermarket LED taillight/brake light since my original is pretty much destroyed.

In the existing AC circuit, does power come off the stator and complete the circuit through the "ground". If I introduce a rectifier, am I interrupting that feed from the stator at the rectifier and return to ground? Then DC positive to lamp, DC negative to ground, or direct to negative on lamp, or does it matter? Hopefully the attached marked up diagram will better illustrate my questions.

Thanks , man! I'll keep that in mind. Existing is a single lamp with two filaments - running light, and brake light. The replacement is a cluster of LEDs with one wire for running, one for brake, one for ground.

I got two rectifiers installed, one for tail running light, and one for the brake light. AC white and violet from stator to each rectifier, then to the chassis. DC positive from each respective rectifier to taillight wire and brake light wire. DC negative direct to the taillight. The system seems to work just fine.