Here’s a few pipe mounting tips since very few aftermarket pipes fits perfect right out of the box:
One bolt not gonna keep that bracket from moving/pivoting down on the frame, You need 2 bolts
But you could eliminate that bracket all together possibly by using a spacer something like a old crank pin with two washers on each side and put a bolt through it right to the stock mounting point on the frame,
I try to get the pipe closer to the frame as long as I have enough clearance from the silencer to the axle nut to get a wrench in, the pipe bends easy by hand, you wouldn’t need to bend it very much.
You can also Dremel/notch mount holes in the header flange just a little bit, to be able to move/pivot the pipe on cylinder studs closer to frame mount too,
Even 1/2mm makes a big difference you can almost bolt directly to the mounting point Or only use something like one nut or a few washers in between the pipe and the mounting on frame
If you use the front mount that attaches to the cylinders stud you may have to notch Esthat or bend that a bit too if needed.
I also prep exhaust pipes by dremeling inside header flange a bit to open up/bevel to match the cylinder port and or smooth the transition where they welded the flange to header pipe when made,
Many times it’s not smooth, not centered or there’s a remove blob of weld in the way that needs to be removed