Is it possible to get a professional looking paint job with a Rattlecan ? I’ve got some parts stripped to the bare metal and primed with Rustoleum High Build Primer .
I’ve used glazing putty and sanded the primer with 800 grit to a glass smooth finish. Can I expect the paint to look as good as the primer or take the parts to a body shop. Thanks
You wont know till you do it.
You need 2k rattle cans, They have a little burst disk in the bottom to release activator to flash off the paint.
Any other type of spray can paint is just not durable enough, that includes the spray can clear without activator.
You will be bummed, its worth the extra money and you get a hard and durable finish.
Prep is always the biggest thing to failed paint, clean the bike, scuff and sand the old paint to promote adhesion, prime any spots that are bare metal, you must remove rust 100% or it will come back thru the paint with time. Then use a final wipe solvent to remove any remnants of grease and grime or oils from your hands.
Spray area just clean from dust, or do outside on a nice low wind day.
You can get very nice finishes with spray cans, I recommend practicing your spray patterns on your first coats to get a good feel for it, consistent coverage is the key to stuff looking good, even from a can.
The base color on the tank was sprayed with a gun by my friend, but I did the clear over the decals and the frame with 2k spray bombs. It was extremely durable and came out amazing.
(edited)
The rattlecan will look professional until it gets gas on it. Single stage paint does not hold up to gasoline/petroleum products.
2k Cans I have heard work good, but if you're really invested in keeping these parts, get a quote for a local pro to do it before you hit it with a rattle can
Joel k your paint job looks great, where do they sell the 2 k spray paint? If I do all the prep does Macco do a good paint job ?
Most auto part stores like napa can mix 2k cans.
Duplicolor also makes a no mix paint in a can you can put in a gun. Get a cheap gun from harbor freight and go to town. The cheap purple gun they sell is basically a sata copy and data parts even fit it. Get the shit and practice a little. Watch some videos and if you get a run, wet sand it out.
This is my big noped today, painted with rattlecans 9 years ago, it got many layers of clearcoat (lots of cans) and i have been carefull not to spil gas over it. If/ when i should paint it again i would use real paint with a cheap spraygun and my compressor, the price of the paint is allmost the same.
That looks great. I’d be happy to get that result.
rusto enamel pro. Let it cure for over a week after painting and it comes out great. No clear coat, but a ton of prep and priming.
This one is after years of abuse, it was stolen for 2 years as well. Needless to say it has some chips and scratches, but no fade at all (edited)
Base coat of your choice then 2x clear.
Joel, that Yammie looks awesome!
Rustoleum holds up well and after fully cured is gas resist. I have two bikes I did 15 years ago and they still look great.
If you dont like the results, wet sand smooth and shoot it again.
The trick is the 2k clear, you can put whatever shitty base coat under it and it will come out looking great.
I like the duplicolor auto paints they sell, they come out really nice for a rattle can and they have them in cool OEM style colors. I just got a Lexus pearl white for my tsm. I shoot clear from a gun over top but my buddy does amazing work with the spraymax 2k rattle cans. One can is plenty for a Moped.
Is the 2x clear compatible over rustoleum?
If so I’ll try that route. Thanks
Yeah, but it's gotta be fully cured, wait like 2 days minimum.
You can also go to an auto body supply place and get single stage mixed and loaded into a rattle can, but the clear is a nicer finish and cheaper
What sheen should I get in the spray max 2x , gloss , semi - gloss , does it come in different sheens? Thanks Again
> Joel P Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> You need 2k rattle cans, They have a little burst disk in the bottom to
> release activator to flash off the paint.
>
> Any other type of spray can paint is just not durable enough, that
> includes the spray can clear without activator.
>
> You will be bummed, its worth the extra money and you get a hard and
> durable finish.
>
> Prep is always the biggest thing to failed paint, clean the bike, scuff
> and sand the old paint to promote adhesion, prime any spots that are
> bare metal, you must remove rust 100% or it will come back thru the
> paint with time. Then use a final wipe solvent to remove any remnants
> of grease and grime or oils from your hands.
>
> Spray area just clean from dust, or do outside on a nice low wind day.
>
> You can get very nice finishes with spray cans, I recommend practicing
> your spray patterns on your first coats to get a good feel for it,
> consistent coverage is the key to stuff looking good, even from a can.
>
> The base color on the tank was sprayed with a gun by my friend, but I
> did the clear over the decals and the frame with 2k spray bombs. It was
> extremely durable and came out amazing.
>
>
You ever get that thing running well. Watched you videos. Sick bike
> Tim Doll Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> What sheen should I get in the spray max 2x , gloss , semi - gloss ,
> does it come in different sheens? Thanks Again
If you are just trying to keep the paint you have I would do a flat clear or a matte. The matte will give it a tiny bit of shine almost like you let it sit out in the rain. Flat will be exactly that. Will just cover the existing paint and have no shine.
Yeah, it worked ok. Took it for a few short rips, but as my usual self lost interest in it after I finished it, Then bought a house and my life is pretty much that every day.
I traded it + cash for a MB5 2 months ago, dude is driving it around somewhere. (edited)
Basically hat it imes down to is they're not gas re su Stanton without a 2 part eixy thar da chemical set and that's why you nee scv the w2k. You can get some enamels to work ok a while, and ordinary I like th ev rustoleum for coverage as undercoat
The bike is actually running and the clutch /transmission works great . It’s a Grandson project and we just finished his Sachs Balboa, he’s driven it 1000 miles . It was good cosmetically but a basket case mechanically . This will be a much bigger challenge but it has electric start. I got the fuel tank stripped down and will try all the great suggestions from all on the paint job. Thanks
Absolutely. But most who try will lack the patience and blob it up with runs. Do several light coats, one slightly wetter coat at the end. Wet sand inbetween. There are certain steps (many more than I mention) to a good job. If you skip them, you'll have an obvious rattle can job and yuk! Might as well leave the patina as to put runs in something.
I did not use 2k clear coat and my bike is sad. My paint is not looking good after I got a touch of gas on it. I did not do enough research before I did it. My fault. The actual paintjob came out nice, too bad it wont last...
> Born to be WillD Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Basically hat it imes down to is they're not gas re su Stanton without a
> 2 part eixy thar da chemical set and that's why you nee scv the w2k. You
> can get some enamels to work ok a while, and ordinary I like th ev
> rustoleum for coverage as undercoat
You drunk Will?
I’ve gotten better results with rattle cans with experience.
I’ve learned that the paint doesn’t dry for about a week. And not really fully cured for a month or so.
I do two coats and let dry for a day or so. Wet sand and let sit for a few more days. Then two more coats. Repeating until it’s glossy smooth and several coats thick. Let that cure for a week and then clear coat. The clear needs to get thick enough to draw down tight as it dries. So, that’s the only part that can have a heavy coat. If you put a heavy coat of clear on paint that has only been drying for a couple days, the solvent can start to dissolve the paint and screw it up.
Let the clear dry for several days. No sanding. And re-coat if you like.
Rattle can is good paint it’s just way too much solvent. Thick coats make a crust and the bottom never dries. It’s a very long process to make it look good. Buy in to that, and it will go great. Not a weekend project.
I painted my faux tank on my SC2X Scorpion Scrambler with a rattle can. Hard to see in the pic, but it has silver metalflake. It was also triple clear coated. All you need is patience and always keep the can at least a foot away.
For the removable parts, I paint them on my oil filled heater with a piece of flashing on top. I turn it on just before spraying so it heats up as the paint is curing. After 8 hours the part is fully cured. I usually deal with the tank first. It usually takes me a few months to a few years to go through the engine and all of the parts, and assemble. By then the tank paint is fully cured and will resist gas.
haha I was trying to type on my phone which is pretty broken and I can't see what I'm typing
My point was that spray paint to work 1 part in a can and cure just from drying isn't gas resistant. you need 2 part which cures when mixed (like epoxy) to have a durable paint job. Spraying from a paint gun you mix the 2 parts at spraying, that's all the automotive pain places. The 2k stuff just adds it in a can, pop the little button to get the mix and curing started. It means you got 1 use once you start you can't re-use any, but it makes a hard cured gas resistant option, but for all intents and purposes it's the same stuff as professional autopaint, just a different delivery method.
But that's the difference, 2 part curing vs 1 part drying, that really makes the difference between a traditional rattlecan and a pro paint spray gun approach, and why 2k cans do work
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