MOPED ARMY

2 things to check.

1 if it is fuel it could be the float needle is sticking and not letting fuel to flow as easily as it should. But when the bike is off fuel still trickles down and eventually fills the bowl.

2 if it is electrical, it sounds like a bad condenser. They will run fine when cold but after a couple minutes they warm up and fail.

Check the float out first as it is easiest to get into. For the condenser you will need to purchase a flywheel puller tool to get to the stator plate with the condenser.

^^^^^^ both good things to check.

Just plan on rebuilding all of it. Everything stock it comes with sucks except maybe the tank and frame.

Unless you just want a grocery getter it’s not going to be that fun.

Ok so I opened up the carb and a couple things stuck out:

Looked like grit inside where fuel comes in from the banjo, that little brass hole.

Float needle seemed a little bound so when I reassembled I cleaned it out and made sure it was moving freely.

the needle was at 2nd to the top so I moved it to the last rung on the bottom.

After that I cleaned it all up with carb cleaner and put it back together. Adjusted the idle screw out, and started up.

Idled fine, revved rough at first since it was a little cold still. Then was fine. Rode for 10-15 mins, hitting WOT when moving without any issues.

Might've been the gunk near the banjo inlet, maybe too lean after fixing air leak and also being at altitude (~5k feet).

One thing: it’ll bog at very low speed, about 0-5 mph, when giving it WOT. Will accelerate after warmed up with less throttle, but now seems like too much fuel when goosing it from slow speeds. I have the stock airbox but no filter (reason for the gunk) and was thinking of getting that MLM air filter from Treats for $28, thinking that’ll regulate the airflow better at low speeds and also keep the gunk out.

At any rate, here’s some pics of the adventure. Riding for a little longer now, no leaks, we’ll see what breaks next. Thanks for the help!

Gotcha, I’ll keep fidgeting with the needle after more test rides and figure out the best place for it to be, maybe one notch from the bottom will be the happy place. Thanks!

Will definitely have to play with the needle again then, bump it up one notch probably. I’ll get a new float needle ordered along with some other treats, then change the needle clip and swap the float needle at the same time. After that hopefully I can leave the damn carb alone for more than a week. adding more pics of the carb.

Everything else inside looked pretty good (although again, what do I know). Already ordered carb gaskets and I’ll probably swap out that gasket on the top of the carb where the throttle cable and choke go in, it’s still in one piece but the layers of the material are separating. After the intake gasket I found out cutting them isn’t as easy as I thought.

Thanks again for the follow-ups!

Ooh didn’t look too closely at where the needle sits. I did spray the hell outta everything with carb cleaner. When I go back in to get the gasket changed and the needle clip adjusted I’ll hit that area with something abrasive and shine it up, thank you!

Oh dang I didn’t know carb cleaner wasn’t good for carb parts. I bought brake cleaner at the same time and still have a bunch left, I’ll use that from now on, thanks for the tip!

Yeah I learned this a whole ago now. Dont understand why carb cleaner is a thing. Break parts cleaner is the best. And you can use it on your brakes if needed.

Works out for me, there was a 2 for 1 on the stuff when I bought it so it was cheaper than the carb cleaner anyway.

Oh, well then it goes back to why does carb cleaner even exist? Probably for people like me who don’t know any better, higher margins/ unit, something like that.

For cars? OLD cars. ;)