Looking for bulk steel inner cable for DIY brake/clutch cable. Is the stuff from the local hardware store the same or do I need to get it for Bike/moped stuff?
Looking for bulk steel inner cable for DIY brake/clutch cable. Is the stuff from the local hardware store the same or do I need to get it for Bike/moped stuff?
> carl jepsen Wrote:
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> san fransisco has all the cable you need,,
It's a bit big and heavy.
Bicycle shifter cable is generally the same thickness as throttle cable. I use moto-size brake cable when I make my cables and it generally works fine.
If you do this a lot you'll want to get a solder pot and the various trappings thereof. It makes making a lot of cables with various endos easier. I don't think I've bought a new cable in a very long time
TOP GUN
Ok I would assume that there are molds made for the cable ends. Do you make your own cable and if yes can you point me in the right direction?
KNARPS
https://www.treatland.tv/moped-long-knarp-cable-stop-p/moped-long-knarp.htm
https://www.treatland.tv/moped-decomp-cable-knarp-p/moped-decomp-knarp.htm
https://www.treatland.tv/really-big-knarp-p/really-big-decomp-knarp.htm
AND LE PARTY
https://www.treatland.tv/treats-knarp-party-p/treats-knarp-party.htm
> Jeff Parr Wrote:
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> TOP GUN
>
> Ok I would assume that there are molds made for the cable ends. Do you
> make your own cable and if yes can you point me in the right direction?
OR choose your poison if you are just doing something really not off the shelf with cables...
https://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/gominicontrols/gominicontrolscontrol.html
https://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/gominicontrols/gominicontrolsfittings.html
Look at theFlanders site and see if there is something you can use.
> Jeff Parr Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> TOP GUN
>
> Ok I would assume that there are molds made for the cable ends. Do you
> make your own cable and if yes can you point me in the right direction?
Sure thing! You'll want a set of cable ends that match the diameter of the cable you're using, something like this (yes I know this is super pricy) https://www.motionpro.com/product/01-0055
You'll also need:
- a solder pot https://www.mcmaster.com/soldering-pots
- solder https://www.mcmaster.com/solder/solder-and-flux/bar-solder-for-machine-soldering/
- rosin flux
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DNR01Q/
The general strategy is:
Get the solder in the pot good and liquid
Add the end on to the cable
Fray the end up good then push the end into the frayed bit so it holds
Dunk the whole thing in rosin flux
Dunk in the molten solder until you can see the rosin come out the top. That means all the solder got sucked up into the fitting
Wait until it's cool enough, then give it a tug to make sure it's on
Grind off the excess bits with a bench grinder or something
I hope that's helpful!
For brakes I use these:
Along with whatever knarps I need. Works great.
> MPB Andyrew Wrote:
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> For brakes I use these:
>
>
> Along with whatever knarps I need. Works great.
Do the end barrels hold good on the universal cables ?
I'v e never tried them . Always some form of OEM ...
> > Along with whatever knarps I need. Works great.
>
> Do the end barrels hold good on the universal cables ?
>
> I'v e never tried them . Always some form of OEM ...
Yes they do work. Besure to use "loctite" on the set screw.
When making cables do you have to make sure the end (furrels) make contact with the end of the throttle handle or what ever it is being tightened into to create tension? I tried to make my cables shorter and the rubber housing was a little short so at zero tension you could see bare wire and when tension was pulled the tube moved not the wire
Yes. The inner wire slides inside the outer housing. If the housing isn't right against the barrels at both ends, you're just pulling the wire and not doing anything. The wire has to travel further to make up the slack in the cable when you pull the lever.
Thats what I suspected. Thank you. So shortening cables manual have to be pretty precise when measuring. Its not just about the wire being able to connect but the housing butting against the end barrel. Could you add some rubber/metal housing to the end to make it fit to make a faux end to butt against the barrel?
You could, or you can add another piece of housing. But it's gonna be bendy at the joint. I've done it as a temp fix.
You can wrap some electrical tape around the joint and then add a piece of heat shrink over it to stiffen it up.
> Jeff Parr Wrote:
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> > > Along with whatever knarps I need. Works great.
>
> >
>
> > Do the end barrels hold good on the universal cables ?
>
> >
>
> > I'v e never tried them . Always some form of OEM ...
>
> Yes they do work. Besure to use "loctite" on the set screw.
Ha! Loctite is a good idea I use these on all my bikes cuz finding the original cable is not so easy, and running big cables for your brakes is really nice. But I have not has any fail with just a good gorilla level tightening.
They work great to make a new clutch cable too. Just gotta shorten the housing a bit.
Nice Jay I like that idea. So..... add a little bit of housing to the cut side and gorilla glue/locktite the addition piece to the longer piece so it will make contact with the barrel to create tension so the wire can move within?
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