Tucson definitely is a sorry place for peds.
I think I've only seen a few peds for sale in like 4 years. A trashed ciao, a tomos and a pacer. All of them more than $800
Tucson definitely is a sorry place for peds.
I think I've only seen a few peds for sale in like 4 years. A trashed ciao, a tomos and a pacer. All of them more than $800
Henrik! You are a photoshop pro!
While I am not confident in my fabrication skills to pull this off exactly I may tool around with some ideas I have had. I know I can lower the seat some if I use the second seat I recieved. Not sure I can really shorten the length of the seat. If they had metal seat pans I would make it happen, but they are plastic and I already dont want to trust it completely, I know I will be checking for cracking often. The real culprit to the length is the tank. It is a bit longer than stock so it is throwing the rest off.
Fortunately I am building this guy for more aesthetics and not as much on racing telemetry and performance. I gotta ge the dang thing moving before I can decide how I need to adjust the actual ride.
I know you just got a seat but this seat also exists:
https://www.treatland.tv/puch-mini-racer-seat-p/puch-mini-racer-seat.htm
its short but longer than a single seat. might work for ya.
Thanks Jay :-) I just got inspired of the other members comments of your project.
I think you have done a great work so far. Yes get it moving first, i know how it is,
first time on the street after af build is so exiting. (edited)
I have the same seat on my chandni had to do some trimming of the plastic to get it to fit right. Plastic seems pretty good and I wouldn't worry about it cracking.
> Satan 666 Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> I have the same seat on my chandni had to do some trimming of the
> plastic to get it to fit right. Plastic seems pretty good and I wouldn't
> worry about it cracking.
I was looking over the second seat I have and think I can take about 2 inches off of the front and that will help bring it forward enough to feel better. I am also going to get some flat aluminum in stead of the box tube I have now which will lower it at least a half inch.
Rebuilt the e50...
Unstuffed crank
Tccd 70cc piston port kit
Vm18 mikuni
Mlm ninja straight pipe
Reused the shims from the stock crank. Now the starting plate is always engaged.
Today I am sanding shims. I dont feel like I would need more than 1mm shaved between the two shims. I may even only need to do the one inside the cluch bell. It is a pretty thick shim.
It may only be that the new crank, the hole at the end of the shaft on the clutch side is a touch too tight to allow the starting plate to move in and out as it should. The pin did feel a touch tight going in now that I think about it.
The only part of this engine that I am not too keen on is that a mounting bolt fused into the engine and I can not get it free. It almost looks like the engine was not perfectly aligned with the mounting holes on the frame and they turned that bolt to get it all the way thru and ended up threading it into the aluminum case just a little, so now that the fused in there they wont slide out. So now I only have two mounting bolts, but the two that are on are the front top, and the bottom so I feel like there is not going to be a weird pivot point since the bolts still evenly distribute the torque like this. Yeah not ideal at all but this is just a place holder engine until I can either get the za50 going or the one that I was originally trying to get on here.
In good news before I figured out the clutch issue I did get the bike started. So that is a huge win for me as it is. Started super easy so I am excited to hopefully get it moving around today!
Mucho work put in this hot hot weekend. Had to get up by 6am to beat the heat both days.
But got the bike running. Just need to get the carb tuned, that's a whole other thing.
Reworked the seat and added the taillights. Still need to get all the pieces wired up and tucked into place but I am confident that I will be cruising the bike around next weekend when I can work on it again while it is cooler.
i feel like a chrome pipe wouldve been good choice for this bike. goes with the fenders, shocks, etc.
> Emil Kniemel Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> i feel like a chrome pipe wouldve been good choice for this bike. goes
> with the fenders, shocks, etc.
The pipe should be baby blue or maybe yellow . ;)
> Emil Kniemel Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> i feel like a chrome pipe wouldve been good choice for this bike. goes
> with the fenders, shocks, etc.
I feel ya, there is just not many aftermarket pipes that fit the look and are chrome. I had a regular peoples pipe on this bike before and when I changed up the engine I had to get a new pipe setup as well. This one had the performance and the sweet straight pipe look I wanted. I do like the idea of maybe painting it blue if I can find the right color high temp paint.
Thanks for checking out the progress. I am going to do some carb tuning and hopefully be blasting around soon.
I am just a super noob tuning a mikuni. I read thru the official mikuni tuning guide and it has almost left me with more questions then answers.
My plug looks like I am running super rich, but all the info I read suggests that I am actually under jetted. I would really rather not seize my kit so it is baby steps with my temp gauge to get this dialed in.
Updates!
Still trying to tune up the vm18. I am pretty close at a 17.5 idle and 70 main. Clip 1 up from center. I can get response from the bike pretty well throughout the throttle, but plugs look lean.
The only time I rode the bike any distance and hit a top speed of 38mph I had a 22.5 idle and 100 main with the clip at the top notch. The plugs also came out lean.
I am thinking that I need a different needle. One that is thinner at the bottom and has a more aggressive taper. That would let me leave the needle in a leaner position but get richer faster and have a little richer cruise position.
But that leads me to a decision. Shelve the vm18 for a bit until I can get some local help with it and get a 16sha for simplicity to get the bike going. That way I can focus on the clutch and have some fun riding this build. Or I get the needles and spend a another whole day trying to tune something I understand very little about.
Second is the clutch. I have the stock 2 shoe. I turned in the springs one full turn from their stock position. I opted to try the 0w motor oil so I have it filled with 0w20. Running it down the street a few times working out the carb it would start to feel sluggish after the bike warmed up. It seemed to have trouble grabbing and letting the engine get into the pipe. But I am not sure right now if this is due to the clutch slipping too much or grabbing to early. Or if it is not clutch related and more carb related. Another reason to try out the sha.
I do have a 16sha on another bike I can grab for some testing. I am just hoping my throttle will work for the sha. It is one of those motion pro short twists.
I ended up swapping over the 16sha I to the bike. Took a little effort to get the throttle assembly I am using g to work with the sha, but I fabricated up the right size bendy for the carb top plate and it works as it should. The carb wants a rather large jet, I'm at an 82 right now with it looking a touch rich on plug chops.
Issue I am running into is that once the bike warms up it gets super sluggish. Just does not want to move. I was going over things to see and it does not seem like any of the engine pieces are holding it back. The only part that seems like it is not quite right is the rear wheel.
I rebuilt the wheels with sealed bearing and I thought I had all the pieces in correctly but I might have something binding up inside. It got too hot this afternoon so i will remove the rear wheel and inspect it tomorrow when i have a chance while it is under 100.
The bike seems to like the sha a little better i am able to ride the bike a little better and the temps are holding nicely near 350. Granted i have not been able to take it for much more than a mile at a time since the rear wheel is fighting things. I'm hoping i can get that figured out without having to buy a new set. The spokes look pretty great on this build.
The rear wheel indeed threw a bearing. Glad it didnt cause any damage to the wheel. Got a new one pressed in and the spacers are all good inside the wheel. Rolls nice and smooth now.
The bike takes off with the sha real nice now. Took it down the road and hit 43mph in a little speed run. The temp never got much over 300 so I am liking where I am at right now.
The one weird thing is that I am always having transmission oil being forced out of the top of the case from the little hole. I know that this is the intended purpose of that hole, but I have not usually had any oil coming up and out in past builds. This is the first time I have run motor oil in stead of ATF. Maybe the motor oil expands more when heated up than the ATF will. Should I be running less oil in my case when running motor oil? I have 0w20 in there right now.
The next thing to do is swap back over to the vm18 and see if I can get that tuned now. Probably wont be much of a problem now that I have the wheel figured out.
Top speed at 43mph. That is full tuck.
I have a tach on it's way to me so I can see where I am at with my rpms. My timing is set to 1.6 BTDC on stock points. My head temps are at 317 to 320max with WOT for about a minute. I am liking all of this.
My acceleration is underwhelming but with my gearing at 13x35 I expect it to be a little slow. Just did not think my top would be low 40's. I am still going to swap out the carb back to the vm18 and see if I get a little more on the top end with that. I am afraid that if I get a larger front I will lose even more acceleration. I am hopingvtgat the vm18 will give me some better low end response so maybe a bigger sprocket wont hurt me too much.
Back at it!
Cheapo tach, still gotta get it figured out. At idle it seemed to read ok, but at full speed it was jumping over 11k and I know I was not pushing that kind of rpm. Still need to swap back over to the vm18, but the heat is brutal this weekend. Even at 7am.
Just about there. Getting all of the electrical sorted out. Added a regulator to the tail lights to hopefully stop blowing those. Swapped out a faulty kill switch I had for the bike, so now I actually have control over turning my bike off rather than choking it to kill it. Still need to figure out how I want to hide the wires and things since I'm not running the plastics. I have the bottom plastics they are just not un the best shape.
neat, yea that's a good simple approach
I really like that ziptie trick, and yeah the idle is a bit high, but I hardly have it idling on the stand and just sitting on it doesnt seem too high.
And thanks for the kind words on my build thus far. It has just been rewarding to be able to ride it, even if it has mostly been for tuning.
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