> ken gilbert Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > el pollo Wrote:
>
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> > > Kevin Bishop Wrote:
>
> >
>
> > > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> >
>
> > > Can’t you just wire a zener inline to get the same effect. I have
> done
>
> >
>
> > > this on 12v bikes and ran 6v bulbs.
>
> >
>
> > hell no. that's not how a Zener works.
>
> that IS how a zener works.
>
> 6v zener cathode band to 12v battery. anode to light +, light - to
> ground.
>
> zener drops 6v from 12v netting 6v across light.
>
> the reason this approach is not typically used is that the zener will
> dissipate (in other words waste) the same wattage as the bulb. that
> means heatsink, and it also means you'll be taxing your electrical
> system with 2x your light wattage.
what a fucking dumb ass. I see no problem running an led that uses 8x less power through a driver that uses 2x more power. I call it progress and I've been saying this from day 1.
ken is right you can connect the headlight to + and the Zener between - and ground and the headlight will be regulated at 6v. my problem with ken gilbert's post is where are you going to get a Zener big enough to light a headlight. a 10a Zener is a 30$ part. bad choice of driver. stupid because can just buy a r/r for less than 10$ with the Zener already wired in and run the whole bike. head tail horn and all.
there is a reason why big Zener's are antique and not used today. its called the bjt. its todays choice of driver when used with a zener. costs less than a buck. or you
bjt or Zener you still need the big cap for long bulb life. gill you want to tell everyone to skip this important part?