MOPED ARMY

You are over-clutched for that pipe.

P.S. use blue springs and weigh the arms and adjust them so they weigh the same on the big end. get a Digital Fishing Scale to help adjust the clutch springs and you should be good to go.

With timing and turning there’s so much you know nothing about I suggest you look at wiki

I would say I'm pretty knowledgeable with timing and tuning compared to an average person. Tuning is not an issue, but not sure about timing. I timed at 17 degrees before tdc, but not sure of how to confirm that. I guess I could buy a timing light, but it sounds like the treats cylinder spacing could be my issue. Anyone else have more info about the treats cylinder spacing?

Did you case match?

I have the same kit, case matched. Treats hi comp head. I did not raise my cylinder. I installed it as it came. Dellorto PHBG 21, techno boss pipe. Stock clutch with kickstart springs, 2.5 turns in from flush. Timing 14* BTDC. 16 x 45. Eats hills, and does 45 easy.

You’re not tuned/ timed right. Do what was suggested, and spend some time in the Wiki learning how to tune your moped.

I'm running the same setup on my e50 other than the stuffed crank (shoulda bought it) mine runs good, does 35 no problem pulls to about 45-47 on flat ground, itll do 35 up decent hills perfectly fine as well. Running a 2.17 atomizer, 82 jet, needle in third from top clip groove, timed at 17° . Nearly keeps up with my buddies 70cc reed cylinder tomos.

Probably timing or jetting, along with clutch tuning. Seems like everyone had some good suggestions. I would not worry about deck night or squish right now if all the ports are fully opening. What springs are you using with that clutch. The weakest ones might be the best. It may not be fully engaging. Seems like lots of people in your area are willing to help. I would see what they have to say in person.

Yeah, and like Eric said, it’s probably not your squish. Worry about simple stuff because something simple is holding it back- Ignition(timing, new Bosch points), clutch, carb tuning, or air leak.

Or a dragging brake ;)

I am a firm believer in a head gasket with all the nuts torqued to specs.

Timing is going to affect top speed, acceleration, throttle response, head temps and jetting. If it fires too early your going to heat soak the head and probably seize or if it fires to late it is going to not properly burn fuel which would lead to poor performance. I would read up about timing and get a light. I kept buying cheep lights off amazon, but they kept burning up. I went to the auto parts store around the corner and grabbed a decent light off the shelf, blew the dust off it and had the parts guy ask me what in the world I needed that for. However it was worth the investment. You have to listen to what the bike wants. Just because some people run a range that is usually a good starting point but every bike is different. You might a couple Jets higher or lower than a person with the same setup. You would be surprised how much more power a properly timed bike with correct points gap will have.

Yes because they were designed to be a slow ass Mopeds that revved to 6500 if that,

Believe me I was a enduro/duel purpose/dirt bike runner and raced hair scrambles several times, always got a finisher pin,

mopeds are not off rode dirt bikes but I made many of mine close to that!

Update: bought a timing light last night and checked my timing today by following the YouTube video posted in the wiki. My timing was at 11* btdc. I adjusted it to 16* with the light and it started drizzling so I buttoned it up and took it out.

Acceleration is much better, but I still think there's some additional improvement available. Top speed was 36mph, so same as before. It feels like the pipe hits around 20/25 and then tapers off on the top end. I know it's a low end pipe, so taller gearing is needed for sure. During my 5 mile ride with some good WOT stretches, temps maxed at 330F.

Questions: I have a head gasket on, should I leave it and advanced the timing to 17-18* since I'm still running cool? Or remove the head gasket? Also, it's definitely not 4 stroking at top end with a 75 jet, so I was thinking of throwing an 80 in there. Should I leave the timing at 16 when tuning the carb? Or should I advance timimg first, test, and then tune the carb?

Thanks for the help so far, my timing was definitely off as you all thought! However, I still think there's some room for improvement

Yeah, that is correct! Timing at 16* and I just swapped in an 80 jet. Also did crazy Wayne's bing slide mod to remove the low end bog.

Still doesn't have great power, in fact it was probably worse. My clip is 3rd from the top (2nd richest setting). I'm gonna try to down jet to a 72. The only hesitation I have is that it doesn't 4 stroke on the top end with the 80 jet. It almost feels like it's running lean, but doesn't get hot and actually ran better with a 75. Any idea what could be causing that?

I don't know how you guys get your peds dialed in and ripping to 45 with great acceleration, but all of the time I've spent on this thing with the rebuild and trying to get it tuned must be close to 30 hours. My ride time is probably around 1.5-2hrs which is very frustrating!

Yeah, you are just starting to tune now. Quit jumping all over the board. Make small adjustments. Do one thing at a time, and check results. You don’t have any time into that bike yet. Change jets a maximum of one or two sizes at a time, then test ride. Example, go from 72 to 74, and try it. Jumping from 72 to 80 to 75 is screwing you. Don’t adjust two things at once, like jets and needle, you won’t know what worked. One thing at a time, then ride. Recheck your timing according to the link I sent you. It may take a couple tries to get it right. I think you’re still off. Tiny adjustments to timing, jetting, and needle settings have big affects on these bikes because of their small engine displacement. If you’re off by one jet size or one needle clip setting, your bike will be a dog. A couple degrees too retarded, and you’re a dog. Not like a bigger bike where tiny adjustments aren’t as noticeable.

By the way, your 50cc or 70 cc moped will never compare to a two stroke dirt bike. It’s still a moped.

Keep at it, it takes time and practice, but if you’re patient, the experience will come and it will get easier.

Man, I don’t get it. You should be doing way better than 35. I can get better than that with a stock top end, pipe, and carb, with stock gears, just by changing the air filter and tuning the carburetor. You should be low-mid forties easy, even with the Proma. It’s not a high revving pipe, only about 8,000 rpm’s, but still. I can’t figure out what you’re doing wrong.

I do think you’re a bit optimistic in your expectations, but it should be performing better than it is. You are definitely over clutched. Two shoe, with kickstart springs is my go-to for stock and mid performance builds. If you were closer, I’d give you a hand with it.

One more thing; you have a clone carb. The carb body is fine, but have you changed to genuine Bing atomizer & slide? Make sure you’re using good internals, because the clones are tough to tune unless you replace the guts. I see you said it’s a 2.17, I don’t know if a 2.22 would help, but you might try it.

Your timing is at 17* you said. That’s okay if you’re stock, but I’d rather see it around 14-15. But to do that, you’ll have to file/dremel the mounting screw slots in order to rotate the stator plate far enough. You’re gaining on it. Keep at it, you’ll get there. Just remember, small adjustments make big differences with an engine this small, due to the small volumes of fuel and air it consumes.