MOPED ARMY

Nice! they’ve held up for the last few long rides fine, I haven’t had the setup in for long. if I blow any I will add 3 more

diodes to each light

Cool, to be honest the headlight is the OEM one and I have no reason to change it it’s pretty bright at 8-10k hahaha Been running it for months and no issues

I’m away in the woods rn haha i’ll be back at my house tomorrow to check the specs on the lights. I can say they are extremely bright day and night.

I wired in 3 more 5 amp diodes tonight inline on each circuit and half *ss wired it in there and assembled it. Went for a little ride and came back to find the LEDs still bright.

Imagine this... the running light ACTUALLY IS VISABLE in the day time!

Hello

I have a 1988 Motomarina Sebring. I'm trying to wire up a vertical fixation LED tail/brake light. I've been scanning the forums with not much luck.

Any experience with this, tips or hack greatly appreciated ..... Thanks

Wire colors on bike

- Grey

-Green

-Yellow

Wire colors on light

-Black

-Yellow

-Blue

Ok thanks , understood

Just wondering if anyone had experience with this particular bike.

So essentially would have to run a diode and capacitor inline to both tail and brake on LED? Trying to understand the wiring side

Thanks

Dude, your condescending attitude is not helpful, Phil clearly is asking for help with the wiring, and while to many this may seem like an easy process it may not be for everyone, so it’s just discouraging to speak to him with a “just figure it out” tone. How about instead of using terminology that he may not understand, you provide a little sketch or something.

[attachment 211551] Hi Guthrie

Thanks for your response and help. I believe you are correct with the color destinations. I've attached a little sketch ..... Is this the idea for connection?

Thanks for the help

Thanks for info

Can you elaborate on "similar fashion OP did" or where I can see this

Thanks

Guthrie Mass has no idea. why would you ask someone who is clueless. he does not understand these conversions. you can tell by his troll posts. what the fuck is wrong with the moped army. I post solutions and explain why and how, all these posts are trolled. this jerkoff gets a pass. I think you should go with his wiring solution and skip mine. for the rest of the ma read and learn.

first lets explain what the cap does and how to order one. the cap shorts ac to ground and stores elecrticity like a battery. it has two functions. how do you order a cap? unlike a battery that runs at a fixed voltage, a cap will run at any voltage set at the regulator. a 24v cap will run 6v or 12v. it wont work at 25v because it is beyond its specs. when you design circuits you want the specs to be double the actual voltge, 24v is good for a moped. the other rating is how much energy you can store in a cap. think of it like amp hours in a regular battery. lets say you are in walmart and need a new car battery. all of them are 12v so the only rating you look at is the cold cranking amps. this is like the uf , mfd rating on a cap. say your manual says the cca of your car battery is 650 minuim. lets also say they also have an 850 cca battery for the same price. everyone would go for the bigger battery. 10,000uf costs the same as 1,000uf. you always want to shop for the highest rated part. thats why I always say run 63v 22,000uf. its price is cheaper than other caps becuse it is a popular audio part.

there is never a good reason to put the cap in the tail light. the cap should be attached to the frame then you run the + wire to the tail light. do not glue caps into tail lights because it is stupid.

Guthrie Mass has no idea what he is doing. How can you design electroncs with out knowing why or how. If he would read my posts insteaed of trolling them he would know the answer. I've said it so many times. to run 12v leds on a 6v bike you need to do a conversion. this conversion only comes two ways. full wave or half wave. all these moped conversions use the same two conversions. when you have a ground wire and it is attached to the other wires and not to ground you need a full wave r/r. you use the ground and head light and the tap is n/c. (edited)

ok, lets take a few steps way back. you have to understand the conversion before you make it. why are so many mopeds made before '80 wired in a screwed up way. there are two reasons, the law and physics. motorcycles need to run the tail light when the vehicle stalls out for at least 20 minutes. regulators of the day were lame before the transistors. thats why all these wiring diagrams are the same. full wave ac headlight, half wave dc tap to a battery then to the tail light.

all these conversions are the same because there are actually only two conversions depending how the lighting stator is wired.why? because there are only two r/r's half wave and full wave. the stator that needs a full wave conversion is like the posters. three wires coming out of the stator yellow, green, black, headlight, tap for tail light, ground makes for an easy full wave conversion. the other stator has two wires but the ground is internal. because of how its wired you have to run a half wave r/r.

there is some theory to know. its a simple rule. stator coils are added in series. the tech lingo is single phase. thats why nobody uses the tap when doing these conversions. the yellow and green are already in series. nothing to know except all the power runs through the headlight wire when the tap is n/c. this wire is unused in either conversion.

lets review the power out of the two different conversions:

full wave=full power. three stator wires. yellow,green,grey. the original power ouput is yellow+1/2xgreen. after the conversion the power at the yellow wire is yellow+green. this is more power than stock and easily regulated with todays transistors. no led's needed even with a 6v to 12v conversion.

half wave=1/2 power. two wires yellow,green. total power output before the conversion yellow+1/2green. after the conversion, 1/2yellow+1/2 green. yes its a big loss of power. why do a conversion that has almost half the power than stock? because todays led's use approx 1/8 the power than the stock lights. won't work with stock bulbs but led's will work fine.

wiring is simple everything now runs off the r/r + terminal. the cap goes between + and ground. keep the battery and skip the cap if you want.

nice diagram but I'll win this pissing contest! just like Donald trump I went to the Russians for trade secret diagrams. (edited)

if you want parts to last you want to order them with specs at least double of what you are running. 34v or higher will last forever,

?????????? you need a regulator to run leds. yes I know they are bright as hell at 17v unregulated. they won't last long. the led bulb that lasts 10,000 hours on regulated 12v will not last at 17v unregulated for long.

but they last forever with the right parts.

if he says he is using a 6v r/r then why the diode?

live evil you mother fucker. what does your bullshit troll post have anything to do with diodes. I asked a question answer it. I've done many 6v conversions asshole. (edited)

deflect and troll, that's all you get from live evil. notice he did not answer my question. he did answer with bullshit.

I see where this is going. absolutly nowhere. the op did a few stupid things. if he is using 6v leds and a 6v r/r off the tap no diodes are needed because they are already in the r/r see pic. all he needed was a bigger cap not glued into the tail light.

ok, so lets answer your questions and finish the pissing contest. I would not keep 6v because all the chepo auto cob leds and chepo turn signal led flashers are 12v. I would do a conversion to 12v. as far as diodes I only use 1w switching diodes for the turn signal indicator. to do a conversion I would do it this way. let me present to you the top secret internal workings of the gy6 scoot full wave r/r. the half wave r/r is exactly the same part except the wire between 8 and the rectifier is not connected. I would do it this way at 12v because chepo led's won't last without regulation. the mount is simple because this r/r is electrically isolated from the frame. I mount the thing anywhere I can hide it to metal near the battery box to help the heat sink. the cap also gets strapped anywhere near the battey box. its tiny. I use the battery box to carry 2t oil. both r/r's get spliced to the headlight stator output with the tap n/c.