A little tinkering with my 3D printer. Choke pull knob for my Bing carburetor. (edited)
I like. So how much to ship me one?
Which plastic is that printed from? How long has this proto type been tested?
> live ɘvil Wrote:
> Which plastic is that printed from? How long has this proto type been
If its PLA you get about five months before it begins to crumble/brittle from UV exposure, PETG and ABS both are going to last unless they are coming into contact with gas. You could go into some exotics like nylon and glass fiber reinforced but unless you have a spool floating around or plan on making something else (or selling a bunch) it's cheaper just to buy (a mass produced) part.
I've got PETG parts that have been outside for going on a year without becoming brittle but again no exposure to gas so you can make things work but it just depends on finding the correct material.
The nice thing about FDM printing is that you can prototype in easy to work with materials like PLA till you get things right and then swap over to a different filament and if you've got it dialed in it's easy peasy and frankly dirt cheap to get into. A decent FDM printer will run you about $200 for the printer and some basics and then about $20 for a spool of PLA to get you started.
SLA has dropped in price which is nice but part production for use isn't really economical unless you are casting in my books, SLS/SLM are dropping in price and if/when those start hitting really economical consumer prices it's going to be great. (edited)
Thank you for bringing us all up to speed^^^
SLA is not as strong in a lot of cases, and it's messy and the chemicals stink and you don't want to use it unless your room is very well ventilated with an extractor. For model making and very precise parts though it cannot be beat.
FDM is still my go to, I print a lot at my work and also as a hobby. I printed this intake in Nylon CF
And this one in PETG
Nylon, NylonCF or PETG will all work with gas to some degree
You can pick up NylonCF on aliexpress for pretty cheap. 20-30% makes a crazy difference in strength and rigidity as nylon is a fairly flexible plastic.
But my new love is Ultem 9085 or 1010 for pieces. Resistant to most everything, ultra high temp and very strong. The price is staggering though, comparatively. I have built some things with it at work and it's really nice.
PLA is great for ease of use but it reacts with pretty much everything so for engine parts or direct UV it's not a good choice.
SLM is cool, we are looking at getting one at work, but the cost for it is pretty staggering if you get a big name guy like EOS, SLM, GE... etc. (edited)
Not sure if you want to share the file, but there’s a wiki page where people post 3D printing files. You might find stuff you could use there too.
we have two HP MJF nylon12 machines at my work. they produce fantastic parts. If price were no object and I could only have one plastic 3D printer it would be the HP MJF.
i've not had trouble with petg and gas or oil, i've made a bunch of moto parts from it.
I think petg is rated as gas resistant. But I have made intake manifolds with it and have had zero issues
> the worst terry Wrote:
> i've not had trouble with petg and gas or oil, i've made a bunch of moto
> parts from it.
What brand of PETG are you using? The MH PETG ("pro") has issues if gas sits on it for an extended period of time.
I've got a TPU gas cap on my peugobbit. And a TPU adapter to put a polini airbox on my oko.
Def like TPU a lot for gasoline resistance. The bottom of the gas cap has lost a tiny bit of color in half a season, but other than that it's been perfect
I forget where I got this stuff. It's probably the cheapest I could find on amazon or aliexpress knowing myself.
Yeah I wouldn't reccomend immersing petg in gas, but like I said its resistant I have that reed block on my dio that has been sitting with gas oil around it for almost 2 years now and it's doing allright.
i mostly use 3d solutech and atomic filament
what temps for nylon cf? do you run a steel nozzle?
Steel would be ideal. It is abrasive so it is hard on nozzles. You could probably do it on brass for a short time.
Oh and temps are around 250c but that can vary, Depends on manufacturer. Also having an enclosed print helps tremendously with warp with the nylon side. Even a cardboard box cover can help.
> Joel P Wrote:
> Oh and temps are around 250c but that can vary, Depends on
> manufacturer. Also having an enclosed print helps tremendously with
> warp with the nylon side. Even a cardboard box cover can help.
Head to local hardware store with a $20 and grab a sheet of FOAMULAR (Those big pink foam 4x8 insulation sheets) I lined a couple of server racks I had picked up cheap and it works great. I had to run some ducting for fume control with ABS but it's worked perfectly with the upgraded heatbeds.
And if you're cheap you can usually find scraps of that rigid foam board insulation all over that people are chucking out.
don't forget to add your parts to the 3d printed moped parts wiki
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