MOPED ARMY

more moped army nonsense. you cant float a stator period. what is wrong with the people here. the only thing you can do with a stator is change where its grounded.

6 to 12 what's wrong with using ohms law to do it. change in load will change the voltage. what you need is modern bulbs, not a different stator.

the lighting coil has nothing to do with ignition. it has its own dedicated stator.

that crappy diagram does not show much. seems to be a recurrent problem here. you need to test the stator and see how the thing is wired yourself. once you know how the stator is wired then you can order the right type of modern r/r.

one hint. the tail light runs off a tap in the stator. it is not used in your conversion.

my kurt tone is because ma is lame. over and over people want to re-engineer electrical systems without bothering to test to see how it's wired.

you can not float a stator. no one here learns. it's an idiot idea.

good luck on your conversion. it will not work because you choose to ignore basic principles. put 55w as opposed to the stock 25w into the ohms law formula and see it can't work.

Gupperino, I used a regulator/rectifier similar to this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Wires-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-ATV-GY6-50-150-Scooter-Moped-JCL-NST-TAOTAO/223707047329?epid=1739699470&hash=item3415faa5a1:g:MHMAAOSwXOVaZuvE

Mine is on a Minarelli V1, similar lighting coil. I detached the lighting coils ground and ran a wire from it out. Some call this floating the ground. Then connected these AC wires to the yellow and pink wires on the regulator. Now you can just use the red and green as your output and even use chassis ground. True it's still a 6-volt coil but I switched to LCD's and there is enough current even at idle to fire the headlight with minimal flicker. A capacitor or even a battery could be added but for keeping it inexpensive and simple this works. Use the search function, there are many here who have done this and similar variations. Go for it!

I left the stoplight circuit alone and simply added an LED tail light. I snuck a diode in just for some cheap insurance.(edited)

Not directed at anyone, just a quick update on the research I've done:

http://forum.omraoffroad.com/viewtopic.php?t=10564

This thread states that some have had success running lights straight off of a generator without a battery, and just a smoothing capacitor. I may consider this instead; though it would still require a large part of my original modified diagram, with a rectifier, regulator, an isolated DC ground coming of the reg, and a higher power coil. One less thing to mount is never a bad thing.

What? I'm afraid I'm not following what you're saying. 12V DC that can supply 3.5-4~ amps is really what I'm worried about. According to treats, not only is that coil a higher voltage, it also can supply more current. That's the main takeaway. I guess technically the voltage is arbitrary if I was running everything off AC, but in the wave rectification, there is a current limitation, as that power has to come from somewhere. So a 25W coil running at 12V will be able to output less power than a 50W coil running at 12V. I don't see where Ohms law even comes into play here. The specifics of the power draw are not my main concern right now. I can always find lower-power lights.

> el pollo Wrote:

> -------------------------------------------------------

> no one calls moving the ground from the frame to the rectifier floating.

>

> ma is retarded you can not float a stator. it is idiotic.

>

> this is called running full wave. in this case you double the stator

> output by moving the ground off the frame.

>

> trouble is this requires removing the flywheel and running a wire.

> that's asking a lot from someone who is not able to test the thing.

>

> even if you run full wave that tap to the taillight is n/c

>

> use that link you posted. that guy has some advanced schooling like me.

> we talk the same language.

Avoid slurs please, advanced schooling doesn't shine through a fog of crude language. I'm not able to test the thing because I don't have a moped, thought I made that clear at the beginning, my apologies if I didn't. I'm just thinking ahead and considering how I would go about modifying something in the future that doesn't support everything that I want to do with it. The AC ground doesn't really matter to me because it won't be shared with the DC ground, nor any of the other DC wiring. All the stock AC ignition stuff will stay the same, but every other auxiliary feature will run off of DC.(edited)

The signal is consider floating when it does not have the same ground with your device. Earth has nothing to do with it. Earth is just another ground.

earth on a moped is the frame.

nice article but this one c/p says it.

big diodes exist but are silly expensive. if you want a 25a diode you run the kbpc5010 bridge half wave leaving the negative terminal unconnected. this part only costs a buck.

nobody knows what the hell you're on about because you cant speak english for shit and can't draw a wiring schematic and keep rambling about the semantics of the term 'floating ground'

good reason to piss off, thanks!

you will never get it. what regulator you need depends on these names. you are a dumb ass. you don't understand the ee posts so you take it out on me. let Dillon the troll write your schematic.

if you knew what you were talking about you would draw a simple napkin schematic in 5 minutes and post it right here. its not hard, we're waiting.

you start by learning the meaning of the following terms

floating, half wave, full wave

each one is wired differently and uses a different regulator.

look up the kbpc5010 then re read how to float again.(edited)

Guthrie Mass, Sometimes getting a simple straight answer here without a schooling advanced physics can be difficult to say the least.

is there a reason you need the DC power? i guess lets start there. if you can ditch the battery and the whole DC side of things it makes stuff a lot easier. do you have a headlight in mind?

most of my mopeds are setup very simple, AC halogen headlight with a 1 wire voltage regulator, a LED tail/brake light bulb.

this thread should finally get me to get off my ass and draw up some of the wiring schematics i use commonly on moped /motorcycle systems, been meaning to do that for awhile. Maybe tonight if i have some time when the kids go to bed.

Answering your previous question:

2 words, turn signals.

Obviously I could try and find some AC compatible flashers and lights, but it seems LED’s are more widely available.

But overall my main goal is to wire turn signals directly into the generator (in my original plan through a battery or capacitor and some reg/rec circuits) so I don’t need a separate battery I’ll need to recharge on it’s own. I’ve done some research but haven’t found any clear setups.