What are the top 5 things I can do to make this Pug faster? Finally got the lights and horn dialed in.
Dellorto 15/15 carb and matching intake, expansion chamber exhaust, porting, variator tuning, gearing...
Or you can get a 70cc top end, in which case ur gonna have to do all those things and more
How fast and how cheap (that goes hand in hand) - the cheapest is just in good tuning of stock.
Remove the factory restrictions for compliance (30-40-50km/h limits all factory built in) for the 50km/h rated bikes you just need to take out the exhause restriction and rejet the stock carb for 55-60km/h (depends on laden weight)
Wow, kinda surprised after reading that thread...I always thought that these were on par with motobecane in terms of speed and power stock, as well as easy speed gains... apparently not, peugeots seem to be more finicky...huh
Nope - Pugs are sort of same-same as Mobys. You can get some great results with mild porting, SHA15:15 and a goodly pipe.
Lots of folks post "How can I go faster" but never mention if they want to spend-spend or do the cheap (but costs time) things to get a bit more (or a lot more) speed. Getting stock to go 50-60km/h is relatively inexpensive, 60-70km/h needs a bit more rework and some cash, above that speed is wallet dependent...
> Aaron Blair Wrote:
> Wow, kinda surprised after reading that thread...I always thought that
> these were on par with motobecane in terms of speed and power stock, as
> well as easy speed gains... apparently not, peugeots seem to be more
Go to stockish Peugeot recipe: le partie / circuit pipe / lightened weights in stock variator / sha / carbon reeds.
DONE. Dont overdo it unless you're tryna go sicko mode.
Stock pugs are great. Hands down my faviorte stock build. but as soon as you throw a kit on it. Get ready to chase more power with more money.
Keep it simple. Port exhuast. Derestrict pipe. Sha 15.15. Three balls in clutch. Lighten vario weights. If all of that is tuned together properly you will be a soild 38-40 all day long and faster down hills.
Thanks, all. So by ‘porting’ you are referring to the 2mm lip at the exhaust I keep hearing about? What else with porting? Anything on the intake end that needs Dremmel-time?
Porting is where you rework the size of the exhause and transfer ports (also intake port on a piston ported engine - yours has reeds for intake so don't mind that) in order to in crease the performance (torque and/or top rpm speed).
This rework is done at the window of the port at the piston.
Widening the port can increase volume which may increase torque, changing the height of the port can increase the rpm limit (I write 'can' because if you just hog out the ports you could make a good engine shyte)
Match port is reworking the end of the port where it interfaces with its mating component. So intake matching is where the intake bolts to the cylinder (or casing depends on the engine). Transfer matching is where the lead ins of the transfers mate to the carter. Exhause matching is where the exhause header attaches to the cylinder.
If you match everything the engine will breath easier and has more potential of delivering more performance. You need to use some common sense though, if you open up the entrance of a long intake, you need to ensure the same cross section volume is consistent for the length of the pipe. No gain if the inlet is opened to 15mm diameter then it necks down to 13mm diameter for the rest of its length, it will not shift the volume of air fuel same as if it was equivalent to 15mm diameter all the way through.
> Jason Walsh Wrote:
> Thanks, all. So by ‘porting’ you are referring to the 2mm lip at the
> exhaust I keep hearing about? What else with porting? Anything on the
> intake end that needs Dremmel-time?
Don't forget to shave down starter clutch pads and throw a second star spring in your clutch for nice take offs.
Three balls, two springs is what worked best for me
$75 cdi with adapter plate and a little grinding on the stator to clear case bolts and stuff. Loctite all screws for coils and stator, time at 1.5mm btdc
Polini reed is a good one, grind down the bridge a little and loctite screws
Simonini circuit pipe works well, reinforce the baffle and where the header meets the chamber, and drill a small hole through the big nut and a cylinder fin for safety wire so when it falls off it won't hit the ground
Step 1: Put the fenders back on
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