I'm lining up parts for a 78 Bravo engine rebuild. The book says to "fit the small metal ducting plate into position. All I see is # 19 thrust washer. Are they the same? (edited)
I think #19 is the wavy washer that sits on top of the points cam before the flywheel
If the book says to install the keyway in slot then slide on cam followed by the ducting plate, then yes for whatever reason they are calling that little wavy keyed washer the ducting plate.
Sometimes putting things together wrong is a good thing. Just keep going.
First sorry for the bad pic. I see it it now, I think I suffer dyslexia, I see it backward on the photo. It clicked when I looked at the parts diagram! Thanks. BTW, I've been looking for torque specs, but cannot find them for a Bravo. Scoured WIKI, am I looking in wrong page? (Under Vespa)
> Les B. Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> First sorry for the bad pic. I see it it now, I think I suffer dyslexia,
> I see it backward on the photo. It clicked when I looked at the parts
> diagram! Thanks. BTW, I've been looking for torque specs, but cannot
> find them for a Bravo. Scoured WIKI, am I looking in wrong page? (Under
> Vespa)
Bravo or Toyota , makes no difference . Metric is metric .
Here ya go :
And , in case you don't know how to read a bolt :
(edited)
ductile equals springy flexible
Don't necessarily use those torque specs on yer Bravo. That is the torque the bolt will allow...……..but in aluminum you have to be careful.
> Don Ohio Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> That is the
> torque the bolt will allow...……..but in aluminum you have to be careful.
Obviously .
Thanks guys, yes, I watched and read tutorials on bolt strength. I booked marked those and ill copy these. I was surprised by how much difference lubricated bolts ,nuts is , against dry fit. Appreciate all advice. But today I'm getting lubed up. My daughter & I are getting ready for our birthday party! No riding today, big 65! Thanks again!
> Les B. Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks guys, yes, I watched and read tutorials on bolt strength. I
> booked marked those and ill copy these. I was surprised by how much
> difference lubricated bolts ,nuts is , against dry fit. Appreciate all
> advice. But today I'm getting lubed up. My daughter & I are getting
> ready for our birthday party! No riding today, big 65! Thanks again!
Congrats ... you made it . Now you'll be able to ride when ever you want , provided you can keep a bike running . LOL
> Les B. Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks guys, yes, I watched and read tutorials on bolt strength. I
> booked marked those and ill copy these. I was surprised by how much
> difference lubricated bolts ,nuts is , against dry fit. Appreciate all
> advice. But today I'm getting lubed up. My daughter & I are getting
> ready for our birthday party! No riding today, big 65! Thanks again!
65 yrs. old...…..that's when I retired. 2 years of freedom and counting,Les. Congrats!
Thanks guys!
Hey guys, the pictures I used to rebuild the ignition, (points ,condenser,coil, spark plug wire), were kinda blurry, so I'm wondering if I'm to run the loose wires under the coils and out the round port , or tuck them in tight, and work them out? Also it doesn't show too well,but I set the breaker cam level at the points away from the seal. Did I get that right?
The points cam goes on the crank over top of the woodruff key then the wavy washer then the flywheel on top of that.
Understood, but the cam doesn't contact the oil seal correct?
No there is a shoulder on the crank that the cam sits on the wavy washer pushes the cam against the crank when the flywheel is installed.
Yeah, you don't want any wires on the spinny side of the coils, tucked carefully is key
Yer right Dirty! I'm reconstructing this from pieces, using online, tutorials, old manuals, etc. If it blows ,at least ill know I did well enough putting it back in order!
Okay, after I figured out I had the coils in upside down. ( look closely at pics ) I'm starting to reroute the wires. So I know the yellow and red wire go to the points . I look at all pics that were posted to look at. But I'd like to be sure, does the black wire to the coil also screw the points ? It's hard to see cause they are tuck away?
Yes sir , got this schematic on my watch list from WIKI . It's been awhile since I've looked at wiring, my bad.
Okay, I got the wiring sorted out, but now I discovered another puzzle. In the pics, there are 3 wires out of my Bravo case. Every pic I’ve seen so far only 2. I did not add wires this is how I got it. HT coil wire, violet wire, and the blue one I repaired. In other pics, the violet one has a female connection. Any ideas?
The wire with the rubber boot should go to the terminal on the ht coil the wire from that probably goes to the kill switch.
Joe got it
Got it, I I’m tracing the wiring with Vespa one. I followed the schematic to the main coil, and I traced the violet wire to another violet wire on Vespa one. But I’m stuck on the blue wire. I want to be sure before I seal it up. Also the handwriting is tough to read on this note that was in the bin.... ( head scratch )
Blue wire is your external ignition ground as well as the hot lead of your brake light circuit. Your brake light circuit must be in good working order, OR the blue wire must be grounded, in order for the bike to run.
Okay! Just filled in the gap Seth. The schematic is tough since I’m just figuring it. Why there is a male connector I don’t know . In other pics it’s a female. I rewired the lights when I took the tank off. The wires were twisted and bare wiring all over. But I’ll leave the connector as is, then when I set it in , change if need be. Thanks guys!
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