Hi,
Have a hobbit Pa2, 1k miles, bought a dr 70 head and a proma pipe.
Forgot and saw that I have to do a stuffy crank, so will do it.
Need to know SIMPLEST carb and setup to add. and any suggestions.
Just want it to run and run simply, no frills, no blah blah... like 19mm PHV and spacer,
or something else. But simple, not rocket crap. simple simple. easy to tune,
runs ok, not trying to win anything but just start up and run good.
The stock carb.
Stock carb handles a DR pretty well, just upjet it. I assume that you mean a 70cc DR cylinder, not head.
smoked.
I have a head for u in the buy sell. I ditched the keihin because it's a pain to tune and use a back to back intake deal off something I have to recall with a 16 ;16 Sha on a stocko shocko.
I also have oem keihins in my sell to somebody collection. Pm me if u want
yep, cylinder. so anyway, stock replacement. I can do that. need to get my parts list in before treats next coupon goes away.
Make sure you get an actual replacement....not a clone...
What's wrong with yours?
Ya don't have to replace the crank if it's got hardly any wear ...If u r stock and are not going crazy no need to rebuild the case at this point. U might need new seals but that's after u do a two stroke leak down. I also have oem stock Hobbit head bolts new never ever used. If u just slap on the Dr kit use new head bolts. I'll throw in four bolts , the motzig head with decomp , for $40 plus shipping , a keihin will be an additional $30. Or go crazy early on and do a rebuild. But again why. With the proma and a Dr u r at 40 mph. Super cheap speed.
Moby av7 I.Take attached to the stock intake and a sha carb. Requires the airbox to be cut off but you stunt have to do anything to take the carb on and off after.
Correct and yes u need the Cheetachrome mod. So stick to the keihin now that my memory has been jogged.otjerwise it's some kind of spigot thingie way unnecessary and complex.
If your putting a dr kit on I’d 100% for sure put a new crank in. I’ve seen a few snap that used the stock crank and kit combo and the variator and clutch bell took off never to be seen from again. Save yourself the pain and do it right the first time. Also the dr is A great choice for your hobbit! If you don’t want to fuss with the stock carb I really like this setup on dr https://www.treatland.tv/honda-hobbit-carb-UPGRADE-pack-vm20-p/hobbit-carb-pack-vm20.htm
Makes jetting a breeze on hobbits!
The guy posted it as taking a sticker and putting s new Dr jug on it. I didn't see a mention of an aftermarket variator. Etc. Just to point out that I actually rebuilt my red Hobbit case with....a pa 50 1crank in primo shape because I was using at most a notched stock variator on it. Which is why I ended up with a pull starter rather than the one way bearing because I wasn't sure if I could figure out the correct bushings for a pa 1 one way. So far nothing bad has happened in five years. Yes it's not ridden every day. If this guy is working on a mild ride say 40 tops and he wants to get there fast with a mere 1 k on the pa 50 2 crank ...I say do it. Basically all he needs is a better head for heat shedding, especially if he is sticking with the decomp. That's my two cents.
What jack said x 2.
DR is a certified crank snapper. Nothin' new here.
Overstated
stock carb's a bitch to tune but once you get the hang of getting it in and out, it's quite capable and forgiving. DR, stock carb and a proma hobbit is easily one of my favorite setups in mopeds. cheap, easy, reliable, and decently fast, great acceleration and stupid fun
stick with the stock keihn, you'll still be faster than 95% of the people out there and nothing to kick/rattle/fall off. plus the throttle cable routing and everything else stays nice and tidy and stock.
92 jet with no snorkel and 86 or 88 jet with a snorkel.
get good at cleaning the tiny little idle passages and run a good fuel filter you'll be good to go.
don't forget to replace your stock metal reeds with fiber ones.
I sure hope Ronald is still reading this. He seems absent from the conversation. No need to continue if he left. We already know what is possible.
> Jackerz ! Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> If your putting a dr kit on I’d 100% for sure put a new crank in. I’ve
> seen a few snap that used the stock crank and kit combo and the variator
> and clutch bell took off never to be seen from again. Save yourself the
> pain and do it right the first time. Also the dr is A great choice for
> your hobbit! If you don’t want to fuss with the stock carb I really like
> this setup on dr
> https://www.treatland.tv/honda-hobbit-carb-UPGRADE-pack-vm20-p/hobbit-carb-pack-vm20.htm
>
> Makes jetting a breeze on hobbits!
I like that, its just getting up in the project. Do you think that if I went with a clone for $20 with a 95 jet then later added that setup Id be ok? And thanks for supporting me on changing the crank, the votes are way in favor.
Also with stock carb, I've heard both votes for 95 and 92 jets. Actually treatland only has 94 and 96 avail. Personally, I like going leaner. Also, picked up a set of boysen reeds. Well, havent put in my list, here it is. (Already have DR head and proma pipe)
They are all close enough jets.
I ran a 95 and eventually down to a 92 but felt no difference. Would do a cold recommendation for the larger.
That larger carb will need a larger jet for sure though. The 96 at least, probably more. (edited)
Hmm I would do the mild reeds not stock. That's what's going on my malossi watercooler which is about the same size as your Dr. Again buy the motzig Dr head I have listed or Do a one way bearing. If u send if to me I will do it gratis is u do the postage. If u do a one way bearing then do the jailing head at dos cycles.
I polished the head myself, should be very very nice. If not Ill get a no-decomp treatland screamer.
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