MOPED ARMY

Did u check the ring gap? When piston is at dead bottom are the transfers open or is the piston a little too high.

If this cut off is a possible soft seize , if it were me I would pull off the cylinder and head and carefully inspect the piston and rings looking for any signs of the ring/rings acting as a welding rod. Also do you know how to perform a leak down. If not learn how.

if it actually just stopped and didnt make any death rattle sounds, try another condenser

No to the condenser. Honda condensers are the best out there. Sick condensers always have symtoms of irregular firing. Unless it is totally astounded internally look elsewhere.

Try this, With the bike just idling apply the choke and see how it reacts. If It does not die then yes you could be too lean on your main.

Search for leaks with carb clean or brake cleen

So u built up the case with a Dr kit right ? So before the cylinder was slipped over the piston to build it all up , it's been said by many that one should carefully slip the rings off the piston or better yet if packaged separately, slip the ring into the bore of the cylinder. Now for a 45mm bore ( Dr I think ) the space between the two little ends of the ring ( there are several variations on the end and how they relate to their respective centering pin that has been carefully we hope placed along the groove that the ring lives at ( don't put wrong ring in wrong ringway ) the gap between the two ends should be 0.18mm NOT INCHES. IF U NEED THAT conversion let me know and I will look it up. Gentle filing if less is necessary for the simple reason that metal expands when hot. If the ends expand and kiss each other the ring will now gap out of it's little home. And the ring will accumulate even more heat until it decides to be come a welding stick and attach itself to the cylinder ....soft seize?? Hard seize....??? That's all I know. Sort of.

Voila !!!

Removing rings is a total bitch. I actually zipped up to my mechanic and friend Bobby to show me how he would get the lower one out. I've broken them before. Plus the rings on this mallosi kit look pretty high tech. So don't want to go searching for another set before I even run the monster.

Better yet , I have a variety of flavored breathable air for sale . ;)

Sorry to wake an old thread.

I finally got around to taking top end apart for inspection. Piston and cylinder show smearing consistent w/ soft seize. Why would it soft seize at such a low temp (~380 max)? If I rebuild this I want to be sure to avoid whatever caused this.

My timing was retarded and jetting was a bit rich - dark plug and a bit of carbon build up to top end of piston

seized my metra kit at 430*

went malossi water cooled, havent broken 310* since,, i've been out riding in 95* days where the feel here in MD is 105-110 with humidity.

DR's are great kits,, but water cooled is wasssup

GL to ya! hobbits are titz either way,, amazing bikes !!!

I've said this repeatedly on Hobbit builds after my stockoshocko initial install. At bottom dead center the transfers were still 50% blocked so it was always lean regardless of the jetting. I raised the kit up with a mlm spacer and voila no more issues.

Put the piston at bottom dead center with the kit on and figure out what up with it. Measure the distance that the piston is above the bottom of the transfers, if it is. Then u need two paper base gaskets sandwhiched between the plate so figure out what thickness the paper is then double it and subtract from the piston to bottom of transfer. That's the thickness of the mlm plate u pick. Remember paper will get a bit compressed. Now u will have raised the top so if u r really serious u need to deck the top but really see how it works before decking. Pm me if u want me to call and talk to you about all this.