e50 leaking ATF
Trying to figure out what this leak is about. It looks like there is a hairline crack in the case near the kickstand mount. It also looks like a chunk of metal is missing in the middle of the mount as you can see it keeps bleeding in the same 2 spots. Any temporary fixes or is this a major to do?
Thanks all!
YouTube vid here ->
thats just the lowest spot, leak maybe higher up.
Likely not cracks. Gaskets and seals can leak.
Yeah, that crack is not likely your leak. Probably a clutch cover gasket, and the oil runs down and collects at the lowest point, like pat said.
But that crack is why it's best to NOT start a Puch on the stand.
> Seth B Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Yeah, that crack is not likely your leak. Probably a clutch cover
> gasket, and the oil runs down and collects at the lowest point, like pat
> said.
>
> But that crack is why it's best to NOT start a Puch on the stand.
For 40 years and 100 bikes I started on the stand but my bikes start with like 1 or 2 kicks, I’m not sitting on them most time though and when I put my bikes on stand I pick the bike up taking weight off stand.
It’s kind a dumb though they made them like that, the stand mount on case you hit one curb with your kickstand and it breaks the case,
Stand Should be on frame
Never broken a case. Ever. Seems pretty unlikely as the kickstand is made of cheese.
I agree completely, Ken. I usually start mine on the stand, but I stand next to the bike and kick it over like a kickstart. I've been advised by somebody, don't remember who, not to start em on the stand, but I figure if I'm not on top of the bike rocking it around, no problem. But mine start super easy too.
I would drain the fluid and just patch it with jb weld.
When your done with it just send it to me and I can use it.
Upon closer inspection, that looks more like a crack than a casting flaw. Disassemble engine. Clean thoroughly with degreaser, especially the crack. Might have to use brake fluid in a spray can to the blast out the crack, then shove some sort of oil resistant epoxy into the crack and that hole.follow the directions on the tube of whatever you buy, theyre really important since the epoxy will be in contact with oil products.
I patched holes in my gas tank with a specific oil resistant epoxy 4 years ago. Don't know what type, but its can be sanded and painted as well. My patches aren't leaking yet.
You don’t need to disassemble the engine. Just drain the fluid clean the crank with degreased & Just patch that bitch from the outside
Preparation and following the steps for curing the epoxy are Critical for long term effectiveness. I realize this isn't part of the crank chamber, but tranny fluid is really stinky. First moped I bought had a crack sealed with epoxy. Guess what happened when I got it running really well? Blew out the epoxy.
My e50's drain plug stripped. So I epoxied that sucker from both sides of the case. Never leaked. (edited)
> Full Tuck Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> Preparation and following the steps for curing the epoxy are Critical
> for long term effectiveness. I realize this isn't part of the crank
> chamber, but tranny fluid is really stinky. First moped I bought had a
> crack sealed with epoxy. Guess what happened when I got it running
> really well? Blew out the epoxy.
>
> My e50's drain plug stripped. So I epoxied that sucker from both sides
> of the case. Never leaked.
Dude if he drains the fluid , degrease the outside surface & sands it, the jbweld will work fine.
And why did you just tap the drain plug dude?
Drain plug is nice to have, but really not necessary. Clutch cover is quick+easy to remove/install once you have a pull start on the other side
Thanks for all of your input. I am going to try JB weld from the outside. If it blows out then I’ll take it apart. Stay tuned....
Update: JB weld held lovely. No more leak. hopefully it holds for the season.
Thanks
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