MOPED ARMY

Why are you using an es plug?

yeah^your piston crown maybe just touching your spark plug electrode, stuff ever so slightly expands when hot hot. remember to retorque head nuts n make sure the threads aint bottoming out to no threadness...

That plug is sitting way too far out.

You shouldn't see threads. Add a washer or 3 to the plug.

One additional question. I've got a 15 or 16 Sha on this. It's been on for years. When it's been running and I turn it off and then pretty quickly restart it will catch usually right up but if I wait a.while it's a harder start and often it wants to start with the slide fully up. After starting it has a great low and even idle. Is there some little starting passage that possibly got some kind of blockage.

to

Yea im collecting them!!

Top is the treats Athena 47.6

Middle is supposedly the 44 mm

Below is the perfectly executed jailing at a tad below 44.

So the squish band overlaps the head gasket !?

Dillon I know it's a dome but it's number of mm above the top.of the jug isnt as great as the depth to the plug of that head even with it sticking out into the head as jbot noted.

And is it a known fact that it's bad for the plug to extend onto the head that way! I understand cosmetically and ethetically it's not nice.

I took a ride with the old head with the decomp and yeah it got pretty heat soaked. 450 plus. Forget that , the only way that's ok is if I live in antartica. But because the bike ran semi ok otherwise, this evening im going to try and get the jailing on the bike using the remove the frame to.motor bolt and lifting the frame up. It's possible though that the too deep plug on the treats head is overheatingthe plugs and heat fouling each and every one that I get the engine to fire up with. So I could instead of replacing the head bolts to 126mm I could try the jbot washers and perhaps that's the whole problem. And Pats observation will be accommodated with washers. I assume I need to find 14mm washers???

So is there a suitable spark plug with a thread length shorter than say a b8hs? What is the brand and number ?

@josiah...thanks for the help. U r extremely helpful. I wish I was as amazing as you. Such wisdom. Keep it up...actually don't .

I looked for 14 mm washers at Ace and they are super wide. But if jbot says it's possible then the appropriate washers must exist. I want to definitely figure out if the extension of the plug into the chamber is causing early very early heat fouling

https://www.treatland.tv/spark-plug-index-washers-p/plug-index-washers-14-1106.htm

A lot less screwing around if you simply stop and buy the right plug .

NGK 5510 B8HS Standard Plug

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/copper-core-4441/ignition---tune-up-16776/spark-plug-12874/b14eb31b13d7/ngk-copper-core-spark-plug/5510/4537085

Yes it's a b6hs. And now a b8hs

Yes it's a shitty head because the short reach plug projects into the dome

Yes unless this is an anomaly don't buy this position

Yes I have Graham's jailing here to go to next if I can't get the plug flush to the top of the dome.

Yes the title of the post is if anyone else has tried this exact treats 44 mm head and what is their experience.

Ok this is now flush. Im going to mount it and see a) what the compression is

2 if I want it higher I will fill the base of this Frankenstein POS head.

3 then see what if it works.

4 the stock head is 120 psi

That washer on the plug wont seal, your going to have an air leak. Is that red sealant silicone? If so, it wont hold up to temps and gas. Use Hondabond or better a gasket and figure-eight the head and barrel top on a granite stone or cooktop glass with 320 wet sand or emery sheet. For a custom build a leak down test is a good idea.

Also some mower and chainsaw plugs have shorter threads, you can match something close in a hardware store just to try out as the spark should be in the right place in the chamber. Too close to the piston and it will see less atomized fuel and foul out. (edited)

Looks like you need a 3/8" thread reach .

NGK BM7A might do .