C50 performance pipes or pit bike pipes as long as they fit. I'm unsure how large as in dimensions these bikes are. Pitbikes are physically small so the pipes can be a little short for a more full size bike. But a passport pipe would breathe a little better than the c50. As the tube diameter should be a bit larger. A free breathing filter and some jetting and you could have a little more power. Look for a big valve head and a hotter cam with more lift and duration. Sounds expensive but the Chinese parts ain't much. But the quality can still be flaky. What I suggested can be around 300 bucks or less if you can find used. C50 bore and stroke was 39 X 41.5mm so dunno if that will be identical. If so aftermarket monkey bike and Dax/chaly performance pipes and parts will bolt on. Dunno if you got those in USA just make sure the parts are for a 12v motor not earlier 6v. But essentially all 73 on C50 and C70 passport motors are similar. The earlier stuff was quite different. So parts don't Interchange. Nor does ATC 110 trike parts. As that's similar to our 72 to 81 C90 and Australia postie bikes.
Planning on changing my motor oil and gear oil sometime soon as I feel a bit of a jerkiness going from first to second, any recommendations? Been looking at some 2-stroke gear oil changes and some Honda ruckus oil changes, but don't know how much that'll translate over to the Nostalgia.
Also, anyone have any luck with putting on an aftermarket speedometer?
4 stroke mineral, or semi synthetic 10w40 make sure its motorcycle oil, NOT car oil as it will knacker your clutch plates, also adjust the clutch its the screw and locknut on the right side as it sorta describes the "feeling" that you mentioned. you tube a video on adjusting the Honda C90/70/50 clutch. takes about 1litre (just under 34 fl oz US) if its anything like the proper Honda engines. also look up how to adjust your valve tappets and check your cam chain. all useful skills to learn with these small horizontal motors.
So I just made a dumb mistake: I accidentally pulled out the cam chain tensioner thinking I was pulling out the oil drain nut. To make it worse, upon hurriedly reinstalling the tensioner I installed it in the wrong order by doing spring, rod and plug rather than doing rod, spring and plug. I tried to pull it out and reinstall properly but I can't get the spring out even when I attempted to jimmy it out with a flex screwdriver. Any ideas on how to fix this mistake?
This is an old cub I had, had a cub clone 125 semi-auto 4 speed on there. and some other mods. the engine had some serious issues, but after i sold it, apart from the coil losing a wire, the dude had no problems, maintenance free - I saw him 2 years later, coming back from a 100+ mile ride, said he never had any problems. fucking crazy. I didnt expect it to make it more than a month or 2.
So I dug into the socket with a flat head and a bent paperclip to see if I could fish it out but to no avail. Got under the bike to get a good look inside the socket but can't seem to find the spring, I'm afraid it's somewhere inside the engine now (that being said I have no idea where the cam chain tensioner leads into). Any ideas on how to move forward? I'm thinking of buying a new spring right now to replace it, but I feel like I'm gonna need to find where that first spring went? Attached a photo of the rod of the tensioner.
So this is a story about a new motorcycle owner who made too many mistakes and took two weeks to fix them:
As y'all might know from previous posts, I'm a total scrub with bikes. This is my first bike and I didn't expect to be putting in too much work on it, but boy was I wrong. This started with doing an oil change because I felt like it would provide a smoother ride, but instead of removing the oil drain plug like you're supposed to I accidentally pulled out the cam chain tensioner and this is where I made my biggest mistake: Not looking up what it was and how to reinstall before throwing it back into the engine. I accidentally put the spring in first before the tensioner rod, and that resulted in the spring getting lodged ~somewhere~, I later troubleshot it and figured it had to be somewhere in the cam chain case.
After hours of Youtube digging, I learned how to remove the case and access the cam chain. But it wasn't that easy. I had mediocre tools as, stated before, I'm a total scrub. So I figured I'd take the plunge and go to O'Reilly's and get some tools... Ended up having to go to O'Reilly's at least 10 more times to get more specialized tools as I went.
I removed the cam chain casing and was met with the flywheel. The nut that was on the crank bolt was incredibly tight and I had no way to remove it. Ended up flying home to LA (I live in SF), where my parents lived one weekend and came back with an impact drill and some sockets for the nut. Got that nut off fairly easily, but had no way to remove the flywheel. Did some more Youtube digging and found that there are flywheel puller tools, but then realized that the flywheel that comes on the Nostalgia doesn't have threads for the puller tool. I ended up renting a Harmonic Balancer Puller from O'Reilly's. I used my impact drill with an allen bit (that required 3 separate adapters to get it to fit on the drill) and removed the 3 allen screws on the flywheel. Then I got the harmonic balancer puller bolts in those holes and with the impact drill, removed the flywheel. Thought I was done. Nope.
I then removed the starter gears and chain, and was met with 2 incredibly stuck screws that held the plate that covered the cam chain. Not knowing how stuck these screws were, I made another noob mistake and tried using a drill on one. Stripped it. Great. I got an impact driver and a 20oz hammer for one of the screws and got one of them off successfully, but then there's the stripped screw. Used a 5/32 drill bit to drill the stripped screw, and somehow the impact driver was able to bite on the screw and I got it off. Took the plate off to access the cam chain and BOOM, there's the spring!
I got the spring, reinstalled it PROPERLY and put everything back together. Now my baby girl runs smoothly again and I've never been happier. Two weeks of work, $100+ of tools, 10+ visits to O'Reilly's and finally my bike is BACK.
While this was incredibly stressful, I learned SO much about engines and feel so much more comfortable working on bikes. I wish this never happened and I didn't have to do all this work, but I'm glad that I did it on my own and didn't pay a mechanic $300 to get it fixed.
Replaced both handlebar grips. I broke the throttle tube, so I had to replace that as well. Still no luck with the after market speedometer I bought. Will have to go back to dealership to buy a new one.
What size throttle tube is it? I’ve been looking to replace mine but just am a little unsure as it seems there’s so many sizes and varieties. However my factory one was improperly installed causing it to get broken and I’ve had it jb welded back together for the time being lol.
Installed a 19mm carb with the external air filter. Sounds like a big lawn mower now. I feel like the power has definitively increased. However it sputters and dies when I come to a stop. Maybe I need to adjust the screws on the side. Thinking of changing to a 16mm carb instead. Any thoughts?
I have a amstar rocky 49. Was wondering if anyone knew how to locate the battery. My electric start won’t work trying to figure this out. Sorry for the obvious question as I am new to working on mopeds.
On the Rocky the battery should be where it is on every cub clone. Under the side cover.you probably have a bad fuse or relay. Time to learn electrical and buy a multimeter, not many mechanics work on these crappy China clone bikes.
It's crazy to me that they would sell a cub clone without legsheilds.....
Look ppl will tell you just about everything when it comes to oil lol....my preference is Mobil 1 0w-40 European car oil full synthetic...I kno ppl will roast me for this lol....but my reasoning is....I live somewhere cold so the “0w” makes it easy to kickstart at literally any temperature whether snow or sun....the “40” means it has high temperature resistance, since I ride a lot and at high rpms.... some common sense tips...obviously dump whatever oil you have first, never mix oils.....and tip #2 oil burns in any engine over time, always check every now and then your not running on low....just my 2 cents¢ and it works fine for me year round hope this helps
Dude!! I had a tomos streetmate but it got stolen in 2010!! Smh such a shame. I live in the northern va area and I was the one who started the thread....not bragging. Anywho I’ve done a lot to my Amstar superstar so far, new handle bars, new cdi, I just swapped my front sprocket from a 14 tooth to a 17 tooth(that’s the biggest it’ll fit on the front) I’m about to put a new chain on today. I can feel it wants to top 48 but the chain is tight and I’m afraid it’ll pop so hence I’m putting a new chain with an extra link or two. But I’m convinced it’ll go over 50 once the chain is on. Afterwards I’m gonna put on a new carburetor and I’ve already got some new wheels coming from “kepspeed uk”
Sounds like a pretty sick build man. I got an email yesterday telling me that they were actually out of stock and won't be able to fulfill my order for at least a month, so I held off and got refunded. Apparently the shipping container won't pass customs lmao.
I’m trying to install a horn to my bike. Running into a few problems. I have it hooked up to horn switch and I ran it to the headlight. On the horn cable it’s self it has a spliced wire with one end being exposed wiring. Where do I run that to? Is that a ground?