Snowflake rear wheel shake

I destroyed a snowflake rim on a pot hole bad. So I grabbed one off the shelf and went to install it. But I noticed it had a small shake in it. I decided to check the bearing and noticed the cone was loose a little so I decided to tighten it up. Well I can't tighten the cone anymore or the bearings binds (even after a rebuild). I checked another rear snowflakes including the one I removed and they all had the same lil wobble. the axles are bent (11mm) so they had to leave the cone a lil loose for the high spot? Is this common? non of my spoke rims do this. (edited)

Re: Snowflake rear wheel shake

snowflake bearings n' axles are poo-poo. everything about snowflakes sucks. even if the bearings are in perfect conditions they will randomly explode and destroy everything. best ya put sealed bearings in them right from the get.

Re: Snowflake rear wheel shake

Yep, switch to sealed, only complication is the front speedo drive but there are parts to still make it work. Or just do the rear

Re: Snowflake rear wheel shake

Probably Fred /

The axle can be bent a bit many times it’s just a little and or cones have a bit of wear sometimes so before I remove any puch wheel I mark end of axle with scratch awl line straight down then orientate the axle in same spot when I put wheel back on

because if slightly bent which usually happens the first time you hit a bump axle can bend and cones could have a bit of wear on one side too so if you put it any other way it could bind so rotate the axle where smooth binds the less so when you put it on doesn’t bind and install it in that particular way.

It also helps keeps the brakes working the same also because the brake shoes wear to actual orientation they are not free floating so if you but on wheel any old away (like most shops do) the brake shoe wear will be different and the shoes may only catch on one side causing loss of brake power,

On wheels that were never mounted on my bike I rotate the axle a little bit each time to see where it binds the less and mark it with line straight down

Of course if you can’t do any of this the way I do (it it’s mostly a feel thing) and or you have worn or incorrect parts then you could do the sealed bearing swap with bearings, shims 12mm axle and nuts then drill out brake plate but I have no problems with puch cone loose ball bearing wheels of any kind because I follow this method and I have them on kitted bikes and they last for years with maintenance.

I have changed cups, cones and ball bearings when they were available on snowflake wheels but good luck finding all those nos parts

Re: Snowflake rear wheel shake

Most people that have trouble with loose ball bearings and cups have either overtightened them trying to get ALL play out or the ball bearings were worn some.

With good grease and new ball bearings, then not overtightening, they are fine.

Sealed ARE better though.

Re: Snowflake rear wheel shake

Yes ken I understand. Iv heard your repacking process before and I think it's clever and I try to remember to put a sharpie mark.

I'm look at three rear snowflakes with the same issue ( ( some more then others)). I'm thinking this is just how they are until you convert them to 12mm sealed. Maybe it's just me.

It's just a stocker, il probably just run it. I Tryed converting a pair when I just got into moping and failed horribly because my spacers weren't straight and the bearing binded. I'm go to buy a lathe And make spacers because I suck at free hand.

Re: Snowflake rear wheel shake

I converted snow flakes to sealed bearings with the kit on treats and the hubs actually wore out. I rode them for about 6 months then noticed play the wheels, when I went to inspect the sealed bearings they just fell out of the hub. I personally dont think the press fit interference between the bearing and hub is correct with those conversion kits. Plus those hubs were not designed for sealed bearings.

Might just be my abusive riding though lol

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