MOPED ARMY

Compatible? Nothing. You will be going custom fitment on every single part you want to put on the bike. No, twice as wide will not fit on the rear especially not if you lace a 16" rim on.

Really sounds like you JUST got a pretty sweet bike, and plan on diving head first into the deep end. Possibly to never finish it because of the cost and skill involved, possibly to just end up with a fucked rat bike that was better off as it started. Make it run, make it a bit quicker, put your head into the bike before you plan major things just by standing and admiring it. There is a lot of stuff in there that you can't see.

That is a great looking bike, rock it stock, do as Ryan said, small mods at a time, don't ruin it.

The front end and intake setup on that bike alone could buy your urban. You will see how steep of a slope it can be.

that is also still a 14" rear.

Agreed, do the belt swap, and tune it really well, will serve you very well.

You could get a motorcycle frontend and wheel. Ninja uses 16" wheels and you can get a functional frontend + wheel for probably 200-500 bucks depending how much work it needs. a 110/90 16 is like just over 4 inches wide.

it'll be heavy as fuck and probably take a LOT of work to get it to fit, but would work out for the front. Wider on the back you can maybe do some tricky lacing offcenter to a wide rear rim. being that the engine and shock are same side you can probably push the wheel out. it'll screw up alignment some but should work anyway.

Alternately you can spend a fewq hours trying to research spline counts and sizes and see if you can find other hubs that could possibly work and then go back and make modify or buy wider offset ones. Might be some crossover with other bigger wheeled scooters if you're lucky but highly doubt it. still you could have some cuzzztom shit machined maybe?

Depending what you're trying to do performancewise DR kit is generally top pick, bang for buck, good performance and reliability and relatively easy setup. Then probably the MLM pipe is the only one that lets you keep your centerstand and mounts up directly.

Personally I'd just port it and use a hobbit circuit but that's cheap and less rewarding and you lose the stand.

Stephen Keller Wrote:

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I'll triple that. It's a gorgeous bike. Don't mutilate it. It looks like my bike's baby brother. Mine does have a weakends pipe and kit on it though. Stock carb and it will do 40 mph.

You can do all kinds of tuning and playing with these. There are tons of threads in here on what to do.

dude, keep this the way it is. its way nicer than mine.

Thanks everyone for all your input and advice. I'm going to take most of it. For sure, I'm going to move slowly and only do some slight modifications. I'm going to start just with a new exhaust (which it needs), some engine tuning and see where it goes. I don't need to go 60mph. If I could get to 45ish I would be beyond happy. I will look for some wider tires, just because I like the way it looks, and it's something that is easily changed back to the original. I will start another thread about tires.

Thanks again. This has been very helpful. I'm sure I'll be hearing more from all of you over time.

Yes, I am aware of this. It's a trade-off I'm willing to make. Is it a significant loss? More than 5mph would you say? I'm currently considering 16x3 front and 14x2.75 in back. That's barely larger.

Would you have an idea what the largest size is that I could go on this bike without any modifications to the bike?

I lost about 5mph off the top on my cub when I went to knife knobbies. It was surprisingly noticeable but in a variated bike you might not see it much, you're probably limited more at topend by engine rpm, I mean- sharper power curve. It probably won't be much difference for ya

With hobbit and it's cursed stock rear pulley I noticed a massive difference in acceleration particularly in the already miserable lull after the rpm drop and before the cylinder got up. It took a tuck at times to get it to actually gain rpm to hit more power. That was going to 2.75 gp1s. I could feel the resistance everywhere.

The top end actually wasn't as dramatic a change but the places where you were at the majority of the time were agonizing.

@ OP: If you're going to kit it, try starting with a DR; those will carry you from beginner to advanced (if you want to try your hand at messing with ports). As far as off-the-shelf pipes go, MLM (Peoples or H95) seem to be the best bolt-on's you can buy; that said, a $35 hack-and-weld will also give you a few mph (NU stock pipes are to be desired...).

3.5" tire on the front - you can raise the front fender easily enough to accommodate it. 90mm (3.54") 14" in back is widest you can go - if your wheel isn't true, it will rub.

Ride with impunity. (edited)