trail tech.net
has a a.c. Regulator that regulates the a.c. Voltage to a stable 13.8 volts.
This would then then be rectified by the tomos rectifier and we'd had have a pretty stable power situation, right? Would it be good enough to switch to LEDs?
trailtech.net/regulator.html
they also have a regulator/rectifier that looks like it could be used to replace the tomos regulator and and maybe let us add a battery.
Pardon my lack of tomos knowledge, but all tomoses I know already have a regulator and the light are AC. Unless you're adding a battery, you don't need a rectifier, and mopeds that do have batteries are half wave rectified (aka just a diode).
I have had this led on my tomos forever......
https://www.treatland.tv/red-fixation-vertical-LED-tail-light-p/vertical-fixation-tail-light.html
Seth Zaiser Wrote:
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> Pardon my lack of tomos knowledge, but all tomoses
> I know already have a regulator and the light are
> AC. Unless you're adding a battery, you don't
> need a rectifier, and mopeds that do have
> batteries are half wave rectified (aka just a
> diode).
I know it has a "regulator" but what it regulates is the amount of a.c. Watts it lets thru, not the voltage. (at least that is what I've been told)
LEDs need a pretty stable voltage or they will die very quickly.
there's nothing stopping me from isolating tomos regulator from the frame (its currently set to go to the lights) and hooking the output of it to a bridge rectifier to convert it to dc (or use the regulator/rectifier). Then hook the minus to the frame and the plus to the wiring harness.. Then you should be able to add a battery so your lights won't dim anymore.
Well, if it regulated watts and not voltage, all your small bulbs would blow as soon as you turned off your headlight. There's a lot of misinformation out there in mopedland. I have had several LED lights on my Tomos LX for several years with no problem . . . direct replacement automotive LEDs from Superbright LEDs dot com.
It regulates the voltage. And yes, you could have a rudimentary charging and all like you described.
As long as you're going to add a battery though, why not just do a full wage system. Much better output and still only uses one coil.
Not trying to jack the thread, just looking for some similar answers.
Recently added a battery and full wave to my 6v system on my Malaguti Commuter, but i dont seem to be getting a charge on the battery. I'm thinking my grounding might be the issue.
Should all chassis grounds be rerouted to the - terminal on the battery, with the exception of one AC terminal on the full wave and the stator ground?
A rectifier does full wave. a diode does half wave.
A rectifier, by definition, converts AC to DC. A half wave rectifier (one diode), a full wave rectifier (4 diodes), and a 3-phase rectifier (6 diodes) are all rectifiers.
Jake, your battery should be grounded to the motor. As long as your motor isnt rubber mounted or you have a ground strap, you should be able to ground it to the frame too. Have you checked for AC voltage coming off the coil?
does this mean all the negative terminal of my lights can remain grounded to the frame too? I have tried both ways and still don't seem to be getting a charge on the battery.
have not gotten out the multimeter yet..
but I do know the stator works, the lights ran fine before I started ripping up the wiring to add a batt
add an AC? who puts an air conditioner on a ped? you crazy good luck with that post pics when your done
Ok, so you have the battery grounded and the stator is putting out voltage. Check the amperage across the battery terminals with the bike running and all of the lights off. Be careful not to blow the fuse in your meter. Most will blow over 10 amps, but I doubt you're putting out that much. If you get anything, you're charging the battery. If you get no amps across the battery, be sure that the positive and negative from the battery and the two leads from the coil are connected to the rectifier in the right positions. If everything is hooked up right, check the four diodes in the regulator.
is it necessary to have both leads from the stator hooked up to the rectifier? I only hooked up one in hopes of leaving the ignition connected to the stator and just running my lights off the stator..
You need both ends of one winding connected to the two sides of rectifier. We're not dealing with your ignition.
both ends of one winding? My regulator/rectifier has 2 yellow input wires that you hook to the stator wires, then a red and black which are 12 vdc.
it's not amperage! ITS CURRENT!!!!
V=IR
in this case R is your lights and any other losses so that's pretty much constant, or not in the case of the dimming lights
so V varies with the MMF (magnito moto force) of the flywheel speed. this also increases current, I, and leads to blown light bulbs.
now someone mentioned watts... watts = power P=VI or in 3 phase S=VI*
regulators tend to help, but never completely solve the issue as I still blow bulbs with my trailtech dial a bright regulator set on low.
Easiest way to rect/reg mopeds in my experience is buy a cheap 4 pin scooter regulator rectifier. Costs like $10 or less.
AC from stator in, 12vdc out (max up to 14v) out to battery and dc shit. No bulb blowing, no probs. Perfect way to run LEDs without issues.
You can even regulate the AC for the lights by tying that line into the light pin on the reg. It'll bring it down to 12-14vac.
This is only if your stator has enough juice. My 6v hobbit puts out way too much voltage so it works perfect. 6v Mobys work too... (edited)
here's an idea to complicate things... I'm fed up with dim lights. I'm thinking of maybe just running one or two lights off the magneto (with a rectifier right before them) and running a bigger wattage headlight directly off a battery. I can still use the wiring harness to turn it on and off by using a solid state relay
let me clarify. Like for the head light. I leave harness intact. Get a solid state relay that will do 12dc for the load and be triggered by dc (never seen one that is triggered by ac). Hook a rectifier up to the headlights regular + and - terminal. Then hook that to the the solid state relay trigger. Meanwhile, run a wire from a battery and then you can still keep the harness pretty much intact and not have to mess with new grounds and so on.
I can charge my battery @ work and its only 5 miles away.
get a larger 20amp version for the headlight, a smaller 2 amp should world for the rest.
nope a diode will give you 6v on a tomos
You are overthinking this.
Electrohacker . Wrote:
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> nope a diode will give you 6v on a tomos
Wrong it will just give you a half wave with half power not half the volt's but in dc.
(edited)
Who said anything about a diode I said a rectifier. Yeah technically a single diode is a rectifier but no one calls them that.
I know I am over thinking it. (I tend to over design things so they don't fail.) Keep It Simple Stupid Doesn't always work on a machine that vibrates and moves the way a moped does. With my way, I have to run two wires from the luggage rack, and add a few things by the headlight -- then I can put a 45 watt head light in thats run right off the battery! while I'm running the wire up from the rack I might as well power the front turn signals.
Really all I need for each light is the solid state relay, the rectifier, and the 12vdc from the battery. The stock harness stays the same, I just add onto the end.
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