painting

Hi, I posted a few days ago about painting my moped well I was priming a piece of the frame and (maybe it was crappy primer(I'm buying auto primmer today)) but the primer like didnt stick to it really, its hard to explain but it the paint kinda moved together and left like spots so I had to acetone the whole thing to get the primer off, theres a label on the frame that says Durolon Coating...I was thinking maybe that has something to do with it... also what is the best way to remove decals...any suggestions are helpful thanks.

-Nick

Re: painting

SteelToad /

Did the primer not stick to the bike, or did the paint not stick to the primer ?

Did you clean/acetone the bike before applying the primer ?

Was it sandable, or non-sandable primer ?

Re: painting

Yeah, at the very least you have to sand a good part of the original finish off the bike. If you dont the primer with gather up in little spots and refuse to stick. Get some 80, 180 and 400 grit sand paper and sand it first. Then clean the sanded areas by at least wiping it off with a clean rag ...then you will be safe to prime and paint. After priming sand the primer lightly with the 400 grit paper and wipe with a rag before applying the paint.

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Re: painting

Especially clean parts that have oily residue on them like exhaust. Here's another pic of some things I painted yesterday.

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Re: painting

Thanks Don...

-SteelToad : the primer didnt stick to the bike and yea i cleaned with aceton before i applied the primer and i sanded with 220 sandpaper...the primer was crappy i guess

Re: painting

Hi Nick, All the guys are correct, but the biggest problem is it`s too cool to paint... I had the same problems, Paint wants to run, seperate like its oil under it, and fisheye, the metal has to be warm. Doug D.

Re: painting

ahhhh yes thats true too doug!

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cheap pic hosting- thanks! :)

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Nick,

I had a the same thing happen with my Batavus in August last year. From what I could tell, the paints were not compatable types. Like painting over a wall with latex that was originally done with oil based paint. There's a good chance it'll peel. I went to a local paint shop. They will mix any colour of auto paint (base coat\ clear coat included) and put it into sray cans. They suggested I use a self-etching primer, or something called super adherant primer. This stuff will almost stick to teflon. I used the self-etching stuff and it worked fine. Also, if you have EVER had a silicone based polish\wax put onto your paint job, it will make any new paint very hard to stick as it penitrates down to the metal. Unless you strip it down to the bare metal and use acetone or methyl hydride to remove any residue it may not work. Same goes for silicone based lubes. If it got onto the paint, you may be in for a hard time.

Richard

Re: painting

Thanks guys...I plan on goin to the auto store in a few hours...I will buy an auto primer and sand it down more. Thanks.

Also I shouldnt paint now because its too cold...its around 40 now, and I painted the bottom part of the frame that disconnects with the main frame, I hung it with wire thru a screw hole on a tree, so it was vertical, is that a bad idea, I thought it was good because I can have 360 degree painting area, you know what I mean :)

Re: painting

Another trick when painting- heat up the can a little by running warm water from the sink over it. it helps the spray come out a little finer, and it helps the paint "flash off" a little better.

DON'T BOIL THE CAN ON THE STOVE (I know some real idiots), try to keep the water off the nozzle etc. If you can bring the part inside to warm up a bit, it would help. As always use fine thin coats that don't completely cover the piece and take your time, for the best results.

Also, if you use epoxy paint on small hardware pieces, you can put them in an electric oven at a LOW temperature (like 200) and bake the paint on. If it starts to smoke, take it out immediatly.... Yes, I do live by myself.

Decal Removal

As for the decals, I've had the best luck by heating them up with a hairdryer and then picking at them forever. If you have a plastic scrape blade that will work well. If you use a razor blade or metal blade be careful not to gouge into the part or you will have to sand out the gouge. To get the adhesive residue off nothing works better than "Goof-Off". You should be able to get it at any hardware store. It also works wonders on road tar, bugs, etc.

Re: Decal Removal

I was thinking that I could cover them with masking tape so I can keep them on...what do you think?

Re; Paint Rag

Make sure you don't have a rag that has silicon on it . even if you don't see it ,it could be lurking about in the Rag. even industral place don't get it all out. Dan

Re: painting

merlin311 /

im going to go out and paint my moped right now just got done sanding it with 180 last night:)wish me luck...

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