tomos carb location blows

I have a 94 tomos targa lx and the carb is mounted in a position that doesn't let me get at it. Someone told me that the new ones have the carb off to the side. Is this true? Also, is there a way to convert it to the new way with a different part number? And do i have to drop the motor to get it off so that i can put the oversized carb jet on?

thanks,

chad

Re: tomos carb location blows

Reeperette /

>>I have a 94 tomos targa lx and the carb is mounted in a position that doesn't let me get at it<<

DINGDINGDING* - You've just found the one major pain in the ass of all Tomos Owners.....one of the most hated things about that 'ped there ever was, is where that damn carb is.

>>Someone told me that the new ones have the carb off to the side. Is this true?<<

Alas, sadly...NO - and never will be, while it sucks on the user-friendly side, it is a time-tested design and they've no intent to change it.

>>Also, is there a way to convert it to the new way with a different part number?<<

Nope, yer stuck with it.

>>And do i have to drop the motor to get it off so that i can put the oversized carb jet on?<<

Well...sorta, but it's not so bad as all that...lemme type up a bit on how it's done real quick here...

-R

Instructions

Reeperette /

HELP, I NEED TO GET THE CARB OUTTA MY #%^$$%#^&@ TOMOS !!

Ah, the age-old cry of the Tomos owner, upon discovering there's NO FRIGGIN WAY to get to that damn carb without (it appears) dismantling half the damn moped...

Well, actually, it's not that* bad, you just hafta know how to do it.

Firstoff, Loosen and/or remove the bolt on the side holding the exhaust on...I would not mess with the one's holding the exhaust to the cylinder tho, cause they're a pain in the ass to get off and on...so just the side bolt.

Now, remove both side panels, the ones with that rubber strip on top...shouldn't be too hard.

Now, (trust me) loosen the REAR wheel and dismount the chain from it, but do not REMOVE the rear wheel...you just want tons of slack in the chain, you will see why.

Next, get a phillips screwdriver, a medium flathead, a tiny flathead and a pair of 13mm deep sockets on a pair of ratchets...tho if you only have one ratchet you can use a 13mm crescent/box-end, or even visegrips. - and a small bowl to hold nuts, bolts and screws so you can find em later.

Also, have the socket kit handy.

Next, disconnect the spark plug wire from the plug, and the two wires coming out of the transmission casing from the electrical system, this is so you do not tear them - and the connectors are easy to find and disconnect...if both are the same color (yellow/yellow instead of yellow/black or grey/black) you might wanna use some kinda marking system so you know which one goes back to which.

Now, shut off the fuel and using the flathead screwdriver, remove the fuel intake screw and move it out of the way, take the bolt out and put it in the bowl so's ya don't lose it.

Now, find the three 13mm bolts holding the engine on...and make sure you know where the kickstand mount bolt is too, cause it's WAY too damn easy to unbolt that by accident instead of the lowest engine mount bolt...so make sure you know where all four are...and which THREE hold the engine on.

Now, Loosen the top TWO bolts and remove the nut from the other side...holding that nut in place is what the second ratchet/wrench/visegrips is for.

Get an unsharpened pencil and push the bolts as far through as you can, then rap it with the wrench, that way you pop em out and don't strip em.

Now watch yourself, cause right here the engines held on by one bolt..see..

Get one hand under the bottom of the cylinder, where the exhaust goes in and gently loosen that last bolt as you ease it down, the slack in the chain should allow you go pretty far, but do NOT let it...your oil-injection and throttle cable lines are still attached, and thats our next job.

Ease it down only far enough to get a...oh hell, it's between 6mm and 9mm, the bolt holding the oil-injection thingie on, but damned if I remember...just be ready, and ease it down only far enough to get to it, then loosen and remove it.

Now, use a tiny straighedge screwdriver to remove the two small screws on top of the carb, and pull the throttle cable assembly out...and make SURE to see exactly how it goes together before that damn spring pops the whole works sideways.

NOW, you can let it down, and if you've done the rear wheel/chain trick right, the chain is looped around the back axle instead of the sprocket, and you should have sufficient room...

Next, use a flatedge screwdriver to loosen the screw just shy of the manifold, and then see if you can loosen the screw holding that black rubber widget on the back of the carb too, if you cannot get to it, try working it around where you can.

Now, get your fingers in there and get the rubber thingie off to make room for our next trick.

Grab the carb and pull it away from the manifold while rotating back and forth...there's VERY little room there to do it, cause it sits in a cutout of the transmission casing, but it should come back and off without any more hassle - if you cannot master this trick, just remove it at the manifold.

Anyhow, now you have a carb...set it gently down where it won't get dirty or mangled and GO WASH YOUR HANDS...having just found out how much of a bitch it is to get that carb out...do you really wanna put it all back together only to have to dismount it again and clean it ?

Treat this like surgery, you don't want to risk even a SPECK of dirt in there!

Now, having returned with clean hands, take the tiny flathead screwdriver you removed the cabr top screws with...and remove the bowl on the bottom of the carb, nice and easy...and yes, some gas will spill out, that's normal.

Once that plastic bowl is off, Viola! that brass bit in the center of the bottom of the carb? that's the main jet...use the medium flatedge to remove it, and replace it with your new jet.

Now screw the bowl back on and pray, really hard, that you didn't get any sand/dirt/grit in there...or just have the carb cleaned by someone who knows what they're doin.

You can reverse mosta this to get it back together, save to mention a few things.

First, that black plastic/rubber bit on the back of the carb...has to go over the plastic tube behind where the carb goes...best way to do that is to slowwwly lift the engine one-handed back into place as you use the medium flathead to make sure this happens....be quite prepared for a LOT of frustration, this tricks hard till you master it.

Also, getting the top of the carb back into requires you to know how the damn thing goes back together, so you'd best make sure you know, have a diagram handy if you have one....the L-shaped piece points to the rear wheel, and the round part of the slide does too.

The cable goes through the middle of the spring, not over/under it.

It's hell to describe, so get a diagram, ok ?

I know alla this sounds ultra complicated and a hassle, but dude...I can do it in under eight minnits, often even less (ask Fred, he's seen it) - it's just a matter of getting it down pat...and believe me, as a Tomos owner...YOU WILL.

Oh yes young skywalker...you WILL know...

-R

bullshit

hey man, the new tomos have the carb and the air box on the side of the engine and is very easy to get to. but a draw back of this design is in the dead of winter the engine wont warm the carb up so it will run as if on choke utill the temp rises or the cylinder actually heats the carb enough for the gas to be atomized enough. sorry ree ur kinda wrong on that one...oh and yes i have a way of getting that carb out with only a flat head screw driver but its hard to explain. and no droppin the engine in my case.

Re: Instructions

thanks alot, that was way more info than i expected. This forum kicks ass.

Re: Instructions

If all that doesn't work, hit it with a hammer and through something on the ground.

Re: bullshit

Mike,

Ree knows Tomos pretty well, so I'm skeptical that all you need is a screwdriver

Can you post more of your method? As you mention, it is "Hard to explain", but if you do your best to explain it, I bet we can fill in the gaps.

sounds like a "scooby-doo" episode.... "The villian used wax paper, this flashlight and a raccoon to create the "ghost pirate ship"

".....I would have gotten away with it, if it weren't for those meddling moped kids......"

Someone didn't read the questions.....

Reeperette /

What "new" Tomos ?

The only Tomos with a sidemount carb is the Revival, and ain't no way no how are you EVER going to rig that setup to work on a Targa, not to mention that I cannot name one single forum member who owns a Revival.

New Targas ? hell no, they do not have the sidemount carb.

And that was the model in question we're discussing, he said "new ones", which, to me - means new model Targas.

As for "no droppin the engine" - lets see, on either side, with the engine bolted up you have a maximum clearance of about 3/4 the size of the carb body, which happens to be in a recessed well in the top of the transmission casing.

I suppose if you wanted to muscle a few parts and do some prying and yanking, you might be able to get it out the front or at an angle - but do you really wanna be telling a newcomer to try such a thing and risk busting something ?

As I recall you could pull some of the old Encarwi carbs that way, the DelLorto is shaped different, and it don't work so well....tho it might work,sure...I'd stick with what the manual calls for.

When I am tryin to assist someone who's skill level I don't know, I do try to give detailed directions that work with a bare minimum of skill, outlined in such a way as to cause a minimum of confusion, and using the safest possible route, both for the user, and the vehicle.

So dude, chill your jets and either offer useful advice, or shut the hell up, cause jumpin my case isn't gonna get ya anywhere, and is about as useful as a bicycle built for fish.

-R

tomos golden bullet ttllx

Hey Reeperette does this apply to a 1989 tomos golden bullet. Because mine looks like it's burried, I need to put a bigger jet in to. Thanks

Re: tomos golden bullet ttllx

Reeperette /

Yeah, that instruction set should work for the A3 or A5 engine.

-R

Re: tomos carb location blows

InfectedBootSector /

I'll stick with Puch... pop off the side cover, take off the filter box, loosen the manifold screw... carb is off.... :)

Re: tomos carb location blows

Yeah, even my sucky Avanti moped is easier then that to get the carb off...loosen the airfilter and then loosen the manifold screw and try to wiggle the bitch out , it's a tight fit but not too bad...was harder putting it back in really. hey, but I just paid for a Tomos moped on Ebay that needs a carb.... guess I'll have to be re-reading Reep's instructions soon !

Re: tomos carb location blows

Wow, I got my EbayTomos moped today.... the carb that's in it is broke, I'll have to get another one... and you're right....the location of the carb blows...it's like recessed into the top of the engine.

Re: tomos carb location blows

Hell yeah, I am with you infected! Puch's, well...they just rule!

Re: Someone didn't read the questions.....

Sprint Man /

I have a Black 96 Tomos Sprint. The carb is on the side (right side). but it's a bit different than a TTLX (Tomos Targa LX).

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