Awww KRAP... Seized

SteelToad /

I've been hoping I would never write this, but how do you un-seize an engine (tomos) I was running fine yesterday, a little fast, but no more than normal, when my bike slowed dramaticaly and then stopped. No air leak, and a little over 3 oz of fresh 2 cycle (measured) to a gallon.

All I can think of is that it wasnt getting enough fuel, any other ideas ?

So, before I do anything dangerous/stupid, what do I do to get it apart.

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

i'm not sure if you can get it apart. I've heard of people realizing it was seizing right away and stopping then after a while it works again, but if its melted in there i think you just have to try to hammer it out and then try to hone the cylindar of bore it out if its too bad. I've only had to get pistons out that were rusted in place so i dont know, maybe someone will have a better idea

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

Remove the head and squirt some lube like WD 40 (or even just motor oil) around the piston...let it sit for a while... then get a chunk of wood and put it on top of the piston and smack it with a hammer till you can pull it off.

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

Are you sure it is seized? Just because it stopped running doesn't meant it's seized. Does it turn over when you try to start?

chris

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

SteelToad /

Smack it with a hammer ... hmmmm ... I Like It :)

After that, then what. I would think at a bare minimum, new rings. What is actually happening when it seizes? I know some melting or deformation. What can I do with what is left once I get it all apart ?

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

SteelToad /

If I stand on the pedal, and jump up and down, it doesnt budge :(

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

In that case, do what Fred suggested. It isn't that hard to unsieze and engine, unless it is way rusted.

chris

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

so your pedals won't turn? that shouldn't have anything to do with a siezed engine, should it?

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

Seizure... the piston grows in size from excessive heat till the clearance between it and the cylinder bore shrinks to ...... nothing.

The increased friction creates more heat and will quickly start to smear aluminum from the piston on the cylinder bore.

What to do ?

All depends on what exactly happened to yours...

Worst case ?... new cylinder/piston/rings

Best case ?... I have seized motors and let them cool and kept running... no disassembly.

other possibilities ?.. New piston and rings with just a cylinder hone job

Examine all parts

Cylinder ??... any smeared aluminum must be removed.

any heavy scratching and gouging will need boring and honing (unlikely for you... too new)

Piston ??.. really heavy scratching and gouging?.. replace

light scuffing ?.. sand scuffs carefully with wet and dry sandpaper (while wet)

Rings ?? .. If aluminum hasn't been smeared over them... they might be OK (but they're cheap too)

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

SteelToad /

Oh they turn forward fine, as was evidenced by my pedaling a little over a mile home along the side of the highway. It's the pedaling backwards (as in to start the bike) that is absolutely impossible

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

Crisis--Cincinnati /

Ahh ha! That makes some since.

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

SteelToad /

So am I correct in guessing that insufficient fuel (with the propper amount of oil) would cause a seizure.

Just went out and checked, jumped on the pedal ... nothing. I'm afraid to try too hard for fear of snapping something on the inside. So any suggestions for where to get a cylinder bored and honed ? Also, are there really that many piston sizes out there that it would be so easy to match a new cylinder diameter. Or am I missing something very basic.

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

Don't stand on your pedal.

Remove the head and cylinder and see what you've got.

If (IF ?) your bore is messed up...

Seems to me you had a bore kit on it... right?

Then call whoever you bought it from and ask if they make an overbore piston size for your big-bore.

Re: Awww KRAP... Seized

you'll probably have to drop the engine. unhook the chain and take down the whole assembly (pedals included if you want, or take off the pedal arms, too). sit it facing up. remove the cylinder head and pour that wd40 in there and let it sit. only then pound on it w/ a hammer. but be sure to use some wooden dowel or something to blunt the blow. start tapping firmly. eventually, it should come free. good luck.

ummmmm

um well steeltoad.... i know u gotta bore kit on there and you run it full out most places right? well then it may not be the cylinder... it may be the cranshaft. mine seezed on me and the damn thing wouldnt budge and the top end was fine. pull the jug/head and see whats going on. also while its off take the conecting rod in your hand and pull up and down on the rod.(dont let the counterweight or any thing else move. just wiggle the rod up and down when the rod is at tdc) if the rod moves up and down on the crank bearings u gotta dead crank. well post back here or email me when you pull it.

-mike

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