PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

HI, everyone. I am getting so frustrated with my maxi's brakes. I bought a pair of aftermarket pads that came in a white box. They are obviously not the same as the original, as those were made out of asbestos??

Well, the problem is, after scoring and cleaning the drum about 10 times and installing the new pads, they have no stopping power. I was told they had to seat, and its been 2 weeks now, and I have even tried sanding the GLAZE off the pads. I put my original pads on, they stop on a dime! They have very little material left, so thats why I need replacement.

HOW CAN I FIX THIS? I cant stand it, I have taken the wheel off 5 or 6 times, making sure everything is clean, and scoring the drum and making sure the pads are touching. The new pads are the same ones available from here

http://www.themopedjunkyard.com/puchfrontwheel.html

I have noticed that with the new pads, I can tightnen them to the point where they are dragging on the wheel, and they still wont stop. And when they heat up, it gets worse.

I NEED BETTER PADS???? ANY SUGGESTIONS

THANK YOU EVERYONE, SORRY FOR THE LONG POST

Anthony

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

I think I read a similar post awhile ago--- Is it possible that you're using the wrong side of the brake pad?? Backward, or inverse....maybe?

It might be a dumb suggestion, but I swear, I remember a similar discussion.

Anyway....Keep checking. I know someone will have the answer for you.

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

Nah they only go 1 way, i just dont understand it, im stumped. Any one who reads this and might have a clue about it, please respond.

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

check the position of the operating cam. That is observe and compare the arm for both the old and new brake shoes. From my manual for the rear brake "The position of the brake is important for a properly operating brake. If fully actuated the brake lever is to be max. 90 degrees. Upon wear of the brake lining changes. Correct the lever position as long as the wear of the lining still allows readjusting. If the lever position cannot be readjusted, the brake lining needs replacement. Readjust at the toothing between brake lever and brake cam".

This last sentence may be the key. You may be pulling the brake hard, but geeting no action off the cam. Good luck.

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

Do a search and look for some of Doug D.'s posts on this.He seemed pretty knowledgeable on the problem.The only thing I can think of,actually 2 things,are that you may have the wrong curvature on the new shoes.Possibly a generic size.Take a piece of paper and trace the curves of the linings and then lay the old shoes inside the tracings to see if there's a big difference.Also the flatness of the drum surface may not be actually flat and your old shoes fit into the shape they've cut for themselves.

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

I had an antique scooter that someone , instead of putting the correct shoes on it, decide to shim the pivot peg to increase the braking pressure on the pads, Not the cam peg, but used conduit on the pivot peg , it was very effective but not correct like I wanted it

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

Ron Brown /

Anthony,

You do not say if you have curved the shoes to fit the drum. If you have roughed up the drum a lot, you should be able to cover the drum lightly with chalk, then assemble and operate the brake while turning the wheel. then disassemble and see where the chalk has transferred to the shoes,

Ron

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

Poor Anthony. I hope I don't have to replace my Puch's brakes, anytime soon!

I tried everything!!!! HELP

Well, the pads are fully touching. They are the same curve as the old ones. I put the old ones in, AND I STOP ON A DIME. I think it has to do with the pad material???

DID ANYONE REPLACE PUCH BRAKE SHOES WITH SUCESS???

I tried everything!!!! HELP

Well, the pads are fully touching. They are the same curve as the old ones. I put the old ones in, AND I STOP ON A DIME. I think it has to do with the pad material???

DID ANYONE REPLACE PUCH BRAKE SHOES WITH SUCESS???

Re: I tried everything!!!! HELP

Ron Brown /

Anthony,

Unless you can already see full contact on the shoes, you should try the chalk trick. The relationship between the pivot and the drum will affect contact, even if the curve is the same.

Btw, have you talked to the vendor about this problem, as in, have they ever used them?

Ron

Re: I tried everything!!!! HELP

You're probably gonna need Doug D. or Fred on this one,Anthony.If you're sure they're contacting the whole cross flatness of the shoes.If I weren't gonna take them back,I'd bead blast the drum and cut 1/2" of the shoe pad material off the shoe end which stands out next the cam shaft edge on one shoe,the upper or forward one if the brake is on the left side of the `ped.But that's just me.Do what you think will work.

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

see my previous reply. Is the cam actuator at the correct angle? You may be pulling hard on the brake lever but losing the mechanical advantage at the brake cam. A significant change in brake pad thickness requires an adjustment of the cam actuator arm.

Re: PUCH MAXI BRAKE PROBLEMS PLEASE HELP!!!!

I forgot to mention that my manual only says what Ken said about making sure the arm is no more than a 90 degree angle to the cable end retainer.And it says to sand the drum with emery before you put it back on,and says the inside of the drum should not exceed 3.590 inches.If you want to adjust this lever angle,you do it by moving the lever on the toothed mounting stud.But I doubt this is your problem.

The problem is that the pads are GARBAGE

Well, after talking with Chris from the mopedwarehouse, he said that the pads are aftermarket. He said they will NEVER stop well. It just shows that when you buy something, always get a factory original. I am ordering 2 sets of the original pads, which can stop my bike very quickly. Thank You everyone for the help, but I guess nothing can fix a faulty product!

P.S I started to get frustrated after removing my front wheel 12 times.

Ant

Re: The problem is that the pads are GARBAGE

Poor guy! I sympathize,Anthony.That's about as frustrating as it gets.But you're dealing with a good source to get proper pads.Still,I asked Doug if he would advise you and maybe he can.BUT,sometimes parts are just junk that's never going to be right.Same goes with car parts:You've really got to be careful about buying clutch plates and throw-out bearings and pressure plates from discount parts places.I tried to tell my next younger brother that one time but he went with cheap.He had to replace the clutch system twice and finally went to NAPA and got the good parts.Now THAT's 3 times he had to remove and replace that F-150 tranny.It's a tough lesson.I also remember being a teenager and buying cheap brake shoes.I'm talking 2.99 an axle from Nation-Wise auto.Then I'd suffer with bad brakes for the next few months `til they came loose from the bonding or split up the middle.Live and learn,I guess.

Re: The problem is that the pads are GARBAGE

Matt Wilson /

Anthony or anyone else: Is there an easy way to tell when you need to replace your brakes? Did you need to take the drum apart before you knew? Thanks

Re: The problem is that the pads are GARBAGE

Yeah u take off the drum and look if there is a decent amount of material left on the shoe. Should be simple to do. U can also tell, if ur brake adjusters are fully turned out and u still dont get good stoppin ppower

« Go to Topics — end of thread

Want to post in this forum? We'd love to have you join the discussion, but first:

Login or Create Account