Forks

SteelToad /

Does anyone know an easy way to take the whole fork assembly, (handlebars and all) off of a Tomos. I want to paint it right and would rather not have to work around them, so if there's an easy way without too much disassembly, I'm all for it.

Yep.

Reeperette /

It's held to the frame by a ring-nut kinda thing, and if yer lucky it has little grips on the nut you can put a screwdriver to, in case you hafta hammer it loose.

It might be under a plastic cover or somethin, but it DOES come off....I should know, having mounted a 1978 Puch Maxi Front end to a 1974 Tomos rear frame.

What surprised the hell outta me was that it fit !

Take yer electrical connections and run a bit of tape with a label on it around each end, so you know what hooks up to what when you put it back on.

That would also be a nice time to reverse yer brake cables, if you wanna use that idea, as well.

-R

Re: Yep.

Steeltoad /

I shoulda known somebody here would have the easy answer. I saw that nut and figured it took a special tool, didnt think of a screwdriver/hammer. I've already got all of the wiring diagrammed and labeled. Thanx for the help.

Just outa curiosity, why did you switch the front ends.

Re: Yep.

Reeperette /

>>Just outa curiosity, why did you switch the front ends.<<

Well the moped originally was a Golden Bullet TTLX, but after meeting a luxury car rather intimately with me on it, the rear section was trashed beyond my ability to fix...it WAS fixable, I just didn't have the tools nor physical ability at the time.

So I mounted the engine to a 1974 Tomos-Koper, but that frame had no front end and the one off the GB was toast, broken in two places and I didn't have a weldin torch even if I wanted to risk welding it and trying to use it like that.

I hadda shipment of Puch parts I bought as "Salvage" from a junkyard, and in there was the front end of a 1978 Maxi in really good shape, so what the hell...I wound up chuckin the original bearings and substituting a set I think come out of a bicycles pedalarm, they worked well enough.

Also realised that a 17" front with a 16" rear doesn't work too well, specially if the 16" rims are bent up, so I put both 16"s on there and just let it wobble.

Had to change the headlight over to 12V, of course, but other than that it was all good, the electrical system came off a fire damaged yamaha, and it didn't last too long, eventually wound up runnin the lights off an RC Car battery, they last about 40min-1hour that way, which is enough to get ya down the road a ways, anyhow.

Man that bike was a deathtrap tho.

-Ree

Re: Yep.

Ron Brown /

If you have not disassembled it yet, go slowly, have a magnet ready and look for about 50 small ball bearings. : )

If you are lucky, the balls will be caged but don't bet on it.

Ron

Well, in case of that....

Reeperette /

You can just measure it and go down to the bicycle shop like I did and get ring bearings for it, they actually worked better than the originals.

Not sure all tomos actually have bearings in that assembly tho...some of the older ones apparently didn't.

-R

Re: Well, in case of that....

Ron Brown /

Ree,

I like the separate balls best. Because there are more than in a cage, you get more resistance to dimpling of the bearing if you ride on rough surfaces (or do wheelies). : )

They glue in place with grease easily enough for reassembly.

Ron

Point taken

Reeperette /

Now me...I hate chasing the ^&%#@$%&# things when they come out and roll all over the floor, so I'll stick with rings, even tho that means changin em once a year.

-R

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