They were all 2 horse engines, some were just de-tuned to meet state speed restrictions governing mopeds. The lower the horse power rating, the more de-tuning crap was put on them. To make yours a real " hot-rod" just remove the cylinder head gasket, it needs no gasket. Torque your head nuts to 7 ft lbs. Some heads and jugs look bigger because they have larger cooling fins, but the insides are the same. While you've got the jug out, measure the intake port. It should match the size of the intake manifold, which has a number cast into the side of it. This denotes it's size in mm, and it should match the carb, which also has a mm rating on it's body. Kind of like connect the dots isn't it. Want a real screamer ? Coat the surface of the intake manifold flange with Prussian Blue and press it onto its cylinder mount. Mark any mismatch with a scibe, then do the same except put the dye on the cylinder. Remove the mismatchs with a die grinder, our object is to reduce any obstructions to a smoooth surface. If you have a Maxi, Newport, or any step-thru model, take two or three of the perforated metal discs in the intake air box out, it just snaps together. Cut about an inch off of the plastic tube that sticks out of the air box and into the frame. This takes some experimenting to find the right length so that the bike doesn't burble, so do it last. Cobra and Magnum models ( the one's that look like real motorcycles ) just remove two or three of the perforated metal discs. Save them. Remove the guts from the muffler and enlarge all the holes that let the exhaust gasses travel from bulge to bulge, you can add some more, it's just made of pot metal and is easy to drill thru. You'll even see lands where it looks like there should be a hole there but there isn't, put a hole there. Beware though on the last lobe, the one you can see when you peer up the tail pipe. Drill NO holes in it or your bike will sound like an open class Maico, and you'll have John Q. Law on your ass like white on rice.