Honda PA Frame Disassembly (to clean your carb)

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Disassembly

Carb Removal / Method One

Working on a Honda Hobbit is a bit trickier than more conventional style mopeds, like a Puch or Sachs. To get to any of the good stuff on the Hobbit (the carb, intake manifold, air intake... and you will need to) can be difficult and intimidating at first. But, with some practice you can have the thing apart in less than 4 minutes (yes, I've timed myself). As you take things apart, keep all the nuts and bolts and such in a neat little pile or in a dish (you should do this with EVERY project you do) so you don't lose anything. Here's what you need:

-17 mm wrench

-14 mm wrench

-Flathead screwdriver

-Phillps head screwdriver

-Needlenose pliers

-Vice grips/pliers.

-Maybe some WD-40, depending how dirty/rusty your bike is.

NOTE From memory, wrench sizes are 17 and 14 mm. If not that exactly, they're close. Open-ended or socket is fine.

Here's what you need to do. These can be done in pretty much any order, except you'll probably want to take the sidecovers off first:

  • Take off your side covers.

If they're clean and smooth, you can probably use your thumb. If they're rustier and dirty, use a screwdriver of appropriate size, as not to strip the plastic screws out.

  • Unscrew the shocks

Use the 14mm wrench to remove the 2 bolts attaching the bottom of the shocks to the bike. These bolts are easy to identify, they are rounded at the ends.

  • Disconnect the thottle cable from the carb

Peer inside and you'll see where the throttle cable attaches to the carb. Unscrew the phillips head screw and pull the cable out with the needlenose pliers.

  • Unplug fuel line

Shut your fuel off, and unplug your fuel line from your carburetor.

  • Disconnect wiring

This can be especially tricky. All your wiring SHOULD be color coded, which is nice, in a nice little bulk of wires that come together on the left side of your bike. All the wires snap in and out of each other, just pull them and the brass fittings will come right apart. Remember where all of the wires connect to! Make a mental note before you start taking them apart. Most are pretty obvious.. red to red, green to green. But there are a few blacks with different identification marks on them. Be sure to distinguish between the black w/ a white stripe and black w/ a yellow stripe.

  • Disconnect decompression cable

Use the needlenose pliers or flathead screwdriver to pry the decompression cable from it's springy thing at the cylinder head.

  • Removing the main pin

Use the 17mm wrench to unbolt the main pin, and pull it out with vice grips or pliers, or tap it out with a wrench.

  • Disconnect rear brake

Unscrew the tightening nut on the rear brake, and take off the little metal cylinder and spring. The brake cable goes through some metal holes and sheathing before it gets to the rear wheel. Thread it through the holes so it doesnt get caught on anything on it's way out.

NOW, the frame half of your bike will lift right off of your engine/rear wheel half. From here, you can unbolt the carburetor/intake manifold. In your little pile of nuts and bolts that you have been keeping in a dish is: 2 14 mm shock absorber bolts, 1 main pin w/ appropriate bolt, 1 brake tensioning nut, brake cylinder and spring. The engine/rear wheel half will stay stationary on its kickstand. Lean the frame half up against a fence, or if the tank is empty, you can just lay it down. NOTE: It is helpful to have a partner while disassembling, but it is not necessary. I took my Hobbit 3-4 times a day for about a week by myself. It's a bit of a balancing act, but with some practice it becomes second nature.

To put the bike back together, just do all the steps except in reverse. This is also a bit of a balancing act, so I try to put the main pin and shock bolts back in first. That way the bike is stationary to do all the other little things.

Carb Removal / Method Two

This is offered as an alternative to removing the frame. Before you try this option, look at your manifold fasteners. My 1978 used phillips head screws on the manifold, and I HAD to remove the frame the first time to get them out. I've since replaced the screws with bolts. My 1979 had bolts on the manifold from the factory. If you have bolts - this can work for you!

Here's what you need to do. These can be done in pretty much any order, except you'll probably want to take the sidecovers off first:

  • Take off your side covers.

If they're clean and smooth, you can probably use your thumb. If they're rustier and dirty, use a screwdriver of appropriate size, as not to strip the plastic screws out.

  • Unscrew the shocks

Use the 14mm wrench to remove the 2 bolts attaching the bottom of the shocks to the bike. These bolts are easy to identify, they are rounded at the ends.

  • Prop up the back-end

Now - on both of my hobbits today, I don't have a rear fender - but even when I had a rear fender this worked. I used a standard gallon paint can and "wedged it" between the tire and frame/fender. Be careful when you do this. This rotates the entire frame up several inches more than normal. Not a big deal unless you go too far, and the frame hits the decompression valve/spring (I bent my valve once - learned the hard way). I would put my foot on the rear tire, and lift on on the seat or frame, and wedge in the can. I've used blocks of wood, too.

  • Disconnect the thottle cable from the carb

Peer inside and you'll see where the throttle cable attaches to the carb. Unscrew the phillips head screw and pull the cable out with the needlenose pliers.

  • Unplug fuel line

Shut your fuel off, and unplug your fuel line from your carburetor.

  • Remove the carb / manifold

Remove the four manifold bolts. I normally use a "swivel joint" on my ratchet. After the bolts are out, and depending on your moped, you may need to lift up the front end of the manifold about a 1/2", then move the carb forward some. This step hasn't always been very easy, and I've had to stop on occassion to jack up the frame a little more so that the carb can be removed.

To put the bike back together, just do all the steps except in reverse.


Carb Removal Method Three- The Easiest way!

Forget the rear shocks and rear brakes, here's the easiest way to get your carb out to clean on a PA50.

1. Use a needle nose pliers and unhook the decompression cable from cylinder head. Unplug spark plug wire.

2. Use a phillips head screwdriver and loosen the throttle cable above the carb.

3. Pull fuel line off the carb

4. Use 17mm wrench/socket combo to remove the engine mount bolt.

5. Use a hydraulic car jack under the front tire and slowly raise being careful not to stretch the two wires above the carb. Go just far enough to access the carb bolts. (If you don't have a jack, raising the front by hand and placing something under the tire for lift would work as well)

6. Use 10mm socket (with extension for rear bolts) and remove the 4 bolts holding the carb to the reed block. Lift out and remove carb! Installation is the reverse.