Differences Between 50 L and V

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Contrary to popular opinion, you can't just bolt a variator onto a 50L to turn it into an optimally running 50V.

A few of the differences between the 50L and 50V models are (for those interested in converting):

  • Rear (wheel) sprocket tooth count (L=44 V=54)
  • Front (pulley) Sprocket tooth count (L=13 V=11)
  • Chain length (approx. L=92 V=104)
  • Spring retaining clip (V has more material cut-away to allow greater spring travel -- the L hook can be easily modified to work by removing some material. You want the motor to be able to move back as far as possible -- but not so far that the movable cheek hits the driven pulley when fully variated. to check this, with the bike not running, remove the belt, slide the moving cheek to the fully varated position and pull the motor back until it hits the end of travel -- make sure there is still a gap between the pulley and the moving cheek)


Add to that list, the lever on the driven pulley, it’s a different shape and the gear engagement gap is much deeper on the 50V version. Probably this is no big deal though.

There are probably more differences, but these are all I've noticed so far. . .
  • (This is based on comparison of a 1977 50L to a 1978 50V, there were many different stock configurations so this comparison should just be seen as a guide to remind you what bits to think about when you are making the conversion)
Added 5/11/10: Also, if you're converting to the variator from the dimoby, you need the variator guard and two brackets to hold it in place. Per BJ at Handybikes, the brackets are part numbers F17661 and F17354. [this is not necessary to make it run, but is nice if you want to ride in the rain, it will keep your belt from slipping]