Cheetahchromes pull start kit for Peugeot large taper HPI ignition
The following pictorial will assist you in installing the Cheetahchrome pull start kit for Peugeot HPI ignition. The pull kit contains everything you need and the instructions will also help you set and understand the timing procedure for the HPI ignition. This is the first HPI ignition I have actually installed and started on one of my bikes and I was a little intimidated at first because of some prior reading I had done that talked about these units being tricky to set up and that some of the flywheels were 180o out of synch.
Turns out that the setup was simple simon and the ignition started on the first pull.
Here is a link to Treatland where I got the HPI ignition
As with the other Peugeot pull start kits you will still need a thread tap and drill bit to install a threaded hole in your cases motor mount. You will only need basic hand tools and a power drill for this install. You will also be required to make a trip to your local auto parts store to buy a M6x1.00 thread tap and the corresponding drill bit 13/64. These two tools together will be about 12.00.
I have decided to use my stock ignition 79 SP for this install demo. It already has a pull kit installed but then that's what I do, build and install pull start kits on mopeds
I start by removing the points style pull kit, stock flywheel and then the points stator plate.
Swap out the longer bottom mounting block.
And in its place install the shorter mounting block that comes in the HPI pull kit. Just hand tighten this part for now as you will want to pivot it later.
Bring in the stator plate adapter from the ignition kit.
Look closely at the threaded mounting holes in the plate. In order for the pull start body to have its cable window be in alignment with the power cable of the HPI ignition, you will need to install the plate to the cases with the two indicated hole patterns in the 10:00 and 7:00 O'clock positions. Push the plate onto the case and peer closely around the back edges to be sure that the red plate is not being obstructed from being mounted flat.
When I tried to fit my plate flush it was hitting just barely on one nut. I grabbed my dremel and started hacking away at the nut. I realised later that it would have been better to lightly kiss the offending edge of the red plate on a grinder to get the same result. It is good practice to always modify the part you are introducing to your build rather that modify your already perfect factory motor.
Preparing to install the actual stator plate to the adapter you will see that the part has two sets of mirrored graduations. The reason for this is I believe and the instructions say that it is to compensate for motors that rotate in opposite directions. The picture will explain which set to use. The Peugeot motor spins clockwise on the off side of the bike so you will be using the set of graduations on the right.
You can now position the stator plate in the adapter. Be sure to line up the slotted holes so that the threaded anchor holes are visible and that they are as far to the left of the slotted holes as seen in the picture. The window in the body of the pull start is slotted as well so that you will be able to rotate the timing if you wish and the cable will follow along and not be pinched or damaged.
The pull start kit comes with all the parts you will need to secure your kit to the HPI ignition and 103 motor.
Now it is time to mock up the pull start body to the HPI stator. Begin by feeding the power cable through the body window.
Push the body onto the the stator so that it just holds itself on the lip of the plate.We just want to mock it on a little because we will need to remove it later. It is a perfect fit so it will be tight. Note the position of the power cable, the picture is a mistake. The power cable should be sitting to the left of the window. Since the black stators slotted holes should be slid all the way to the right in relation to the anchor holes of the red plate. It can only be turned in one direction and that will be to the left. Thus the cable will have lots of room to travel.
Now you can hand thread in your lower mount bolt and spacer. This is why you leave the block loose on the case and the body just hanging on the plate, so you can pivot either to better line up to the bolt. Once you have the lower bolt threaded up hand tight you can then wrench tighten the mounting block to case bolt.
With the pull body's lower bolt threaded and the power cable all the way to the right of the window you will now use a sharp pointed object to dimple the motor mount. This will be where you will drill and create threads for the top mounting bolt. Don't be intimidated by this step. It may seem daunting but if you go slow and steady you will succeed and be a better builder for it.
As in the past I use a sharp Phillips screwdriver to line up through the body tab then smack it with a hammer to make a dimple that I can now drill.
Remove the body so that you can really square up on the dimple for drilling. Cover the stator with a rag to keep out the cuttings.
I was lucky to acquire this tapping tool handle to do my final thread cutting. It really holds even the cheapest of quality cutting taps so you can turn them into your drilled hole to create threads. I have though used a pair of vice grip pliers to hold the tap.
You should then test fit the bolt from the kit to see how it fits. I'm sure you will do fine.
The instructions that come in the HPI kit call for a default piston height setting of 2mm BTDC. I don't know what magic tools you use for determining TDC (top dead center) or BTDC (before top dead center). There are many methods. I use a homemade tool that uses two sliding rods that rest on the crown of the piston. The outermost rod has a setscrew so I can hold the rod in an outermost position to represent the top of the piston.
While pushing on the two rods with my finger, the two rods will travel together up and down as the piston goes up and down while I rotate the the clutch bell with my other hand. As i rotate the clutch bell clockwise and the two rods travel the furthest out of the motor, I feel the tiny "no mans land" of the rods not going up or down. This point is called (top dead center). I then tighten the setscrew to lock the top rod. I can then slowly rotate the clutch bell backwards from this point and now create a space between the two rods.
It is in this space that we can insert a known gauge or thickness To determine how for down in the cylinder the piston is.
I like to use the leaves of a feeler gauge tool. I have marked three of the leaves so that I can just go straight to them in the bundle as I know that the numbers on the three leaves add up to 2.00mm.
When I insert my known gauge between the two rods then rotate the piston clockwise to push the bottom rod up till it traps the gauge, the piston and rotation stops dead like it has hit a wall. I know now absolutely, positively that my piston Is sitting 2.00mm BTDC.
I am now ready to set my flywheel on the crank taper.
The timing mark on the flywheel is hard to see so I have painted it white.
With the crank shaft set at 2.00mm BTDC it is a simple task to just simply slide the flywheel onto the crank taper so that its white mark lines up with the default timing mark that has the little diamond. This will get the bike started and traveling down the road. You can later loosen the three stator screws and rotate the black stator wherever you want.
With the flywheel in position I recommend some light taps with a hammer to help seat the two tapers. You can then install the special nut washer and pawl. Use a strap wrench on the clutch bell to hold the crankshaft while you tighten the nut with a 11/16 or 18mm socket.
Next I went to install the tree stator plate locking screws only to discover that the three screws included in the HPI kit had heads that were too big and they actually touched the flywheel not allowing it to turn. The choices are to go to the hardware store and buy three M5 0.8 thread screws with smaller heads or to just grind down the edges of the three I have.
After grinding the heads they looked like this.
Now they don't hit the flywheel.
The last detail before mounting the pull start body to the motor is to install the spooler to the body.
The little rope spooling component included in this kit seems pretty robust but I recommend that you not pull
the rope all the way to the end of the spool as the spool is plastic and if you live in cold climate I imagine it might
snap the rope or the plastic spool. I have found that short quick snapping jerks work best and really get the motor
Spinning for a smooth start. If your rope should break, here is a link to easily repairing the spooling unit. [rope broke]
Turns out that this is the smallest diameter pull start that I have now or will ever make. The three inside nylock nuts sit right up against the inside wall of the body. You will want to finger start all three of the nut bolt combinations before you tighten them for keeps.
After dropping in the allen head bolt put your wrench in the socket so you can use the arm of the wrench to angle the bolt so you can more easily finger start the nylock nut
It is a tight fit to start them but unless you have Hulk hands you will soon have all three assembled
Then when you have all three started you can finish wrenching them tight with your allen wrench. You might not even have to use a back up wrench.
With the spooler mounted you can now press on the pull start body and install the mounting bolts. I said befor it will be a tight fit so use your palm to bang the body all the way on. Finish off by tightening the two M6 bolts.
Note: when installing the top mounting bolt be aware that the length of the bolt may come in contact with certain types of intakes. If you feel the bolt coming in contact with your intake stop and shorten the bolt or add some washers
I can't wait to get all the coil and box components mounted. I want to hear this thing run. I quickly mocked up all the other wiring and clamped the coil to a good ground on the head. One pull is all it took and the ignition roared to life. The throttle is snappy and the bike really revs scary high.
I am now finished with this Wiki page. If you have any questions about the tips I suggested, or are having trouble with the process or can suggest how I can correct a mistake or to make the page better, contact Cheetahchrome