Kit break in guide
SamRM
(
samm)
— Jul 01, 2009 12:07PM
Heres a break in guide that a friend passed on to me... I thought I would share.
1. Start your engine, let it idle, and check for air leaks. once
none remain move to step 2.
2. Start your engine and let it idle, occasionally blipping the
throttle for four to five minutes. Allow the engine to
cool completely. Repeat this heat cycle process four more times.
3. Warm up the engine again and ride the bike for five to seven minutes at a very easy pace. Vary the rpm, and do
not ride at one speed. Do not ride at more that 1/3 throttle or more than 1/3 rpm. Let the engine cool down
completely and repeat this initial break in ride. Let the engine cool down.
4. Check the head nuts for proper torque.
5. Ride the bike for five to ten minutes at a moderate pace. Vary the rpm, and do not ride at more than 3/4 throttle
or more than 3/4 rpm. Then let the engine cool completely and repeat this secondary break-in twice more.
6. Replace the spark plug with a new one. Ride the bike for five to eight minutes at a moderate pace. Vary the rpm. Once the engine is up to operating temperature, you can make a jetting pass. Ride at a moderate/high rpm. With the throttle wide open hold the kill button down and stop.
7. Read the spark plug. With a pocket flashlight and a magnifying glass, look at the porcelain Palt of the plug
only. As you view the plug from the center electrode, look down on the length of the porcelain to its base.
There should be a dark chocolate colored smoke ring. There was not sufficient time to thoroughly color the whole plug, so the nose of the insulator may still be white. As long
as there is a visible dark ring at the base, everything is OK. Remember, we want break-in jetting, so the plug
should read rich/dark. Richen the jetting as necessary. If you are having a hard time reading the spark plug, follow the proceeding steps: Put the plug in a vice, and hacksaw around the plug at the washer. Break the threads off with vise grips and the porcelain will be easy to read.
8. Complete the break-in by riding at an aggressive pace for fifteen minutes. Vary the rpm and do not cruise at part throttle. Ride hard without revving the engine too high. At the end of this final break-in session do another jetting pass/plug chop as described above. Check the spark plug for the correct dark/rich condition.
9. Replace the spark plug with a new one. Ride the bike aggressively for eight minutes and do a jetting pass/plug chop at full rpm. If the porcelain color is still dark/rich, lean the main jet size one at a time until the smoke ring at the base of the porcelain is a light brown. If the porcelain base is white, do not run the engine, check for air leaks, and jet size. If the plug color looks good, continue riding at a race pace for ten minutes. Stop and let the engine cool. Check the torque on the cylinder base and head nuts.
1. Start your engine, let it idle, and check for air leaks. once
none remain move to step 2.
2. Start your engine and let it idle, occasionally blipping the
throttle for four to five minutes. Allow the engine to
cool completely. Repeat this heat cycle process four more times.
3. Warm up the engine again and ride the bike for five to seven minutes at a very easy pace. Vary the rpm, and do
not ride at one speed. Do not ride at more that 1/3 throttle or more than 1/3 rpm. Let the engine cool down
completely and repeat this initial break in ride. Let the engine cool down.
4. Check the head nuts for proper torque.
5. Ride the bike for five to ten minutes at a moderate pace. Vary the rpm, and do not ride at more than 3/4 throttle
or more than 3/4 rpm. Then let the engine cool completely and repeat this secondary break-in twice more.
6. Replace the spark plug with a new one. Ride the bike for five to eight minutes at a moderate pace. Vary the rpm. Once the engine is up to operating temperature, you can make a jetting pass. Ride at a moderate/high rpm. With the throttle wide open hold the kill button down and stop.
7. Read the spark plug. With a pocket flashlight and a magnifying glass, look at the porcelain Palt of the plug
only. As you view the plug from the center electrode, look down on the length of the porcelain to its base.
There should be a dark chocolate colored smoke ring. There was not sufficient time to thoroughly color the whole plug, so the nose of the insulator may still be white. As long
as there is a visible dark ring at the base, everything is OK. Remember, we want break-in jetting, so the plug
should read rich/dark. Richen the jetting as necessary. If you are having a hard time reading the spark plug, follow the proceeding steps: Put the plug in a vice, and hacksaw around the plug at the washer. Break the threads off with vise grips and the porcelain will be easy to read.
8. Complete the break-in by riding at an aggressive pace for fifteen minutes. Vary the rpm and do not cruise at part throttle. Ride hard without revving the engine too high. At the end of this final break-in session do another jetting pass/plug chop as described above. Check the spark plug for the correct dark/rich condition.
9. Replace the spark plug with a new one. Ride the bike aggressively for eight minutes and do a jetting pass/plug chop at full rpm. If the porcelain color is still dark/rich, lean the main jet size one at a time until the smoke ring at the base of the porcelain is a light brown. If the porcelain base is white, do not run the engine, check for air leaks, and jet size. If the plug color looks good, continue riding at a race pace for ten minutes. Stop and let the engine cool. Check the torque on the cylinder base and head nuts.
Kit break in guide
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